EPDB on low-pitched roof

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Our cabin building has a pitch of about 15 degrees and we plan to replace the top deck with EPDB after the shingles failed. Looking at ClassicBond most likely. I know this can be used but had a couple of detailing questions I cannot see answered online:

1. Gutter drip edging fits at 90 degrees to the roof surface I think since it's designed for flat roofs, so on a pitched roof it will not be hanging vertically. Is this a problem and should I be doing something bespoke instead?
2. At the peak of the roof, should I do anything special? I thought perhaps mitre the boards at 15 degrees so there is no gap but what about taping or something to avoid a sharp edge... or will a 30 degree 'ridge' not be sharp enough to cause issues.

Just for reference:
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I used some upvc trim on my gutter edge as it was easier for me to form.

I roughed it up with sand paper then stuck the EPDM to it with contact adhesive.

on your ridge, as it’s a biggish roof, I’d be tempted to do it it in 2 pieces, one stopping just before the ridge, then one overlapping.

A roll of EPDM that big is chuffing heavy - even in 2 bits. I found by rolling it up as a long sausage I could lean it up against a leaning board, then grab the end and heave it up.

by the way, a Karndean roller is fantastic for EPDM.
 
I used some upvc trim on my gutter edge as it was easier for me to form.

I roughed it up with sand paper then stuck the EPDM to it with contact adhesive.

on your ridge, as it’s a biggish roof, I’d be tempted to do it it in 2 pieces, one stopping just before the ridge, then one overlapping.

A roll of EPDM that big is chuffing heavy - even in 2 bits. I found by rolling it up as a long sausage I could lean it up against a leaning board, then grab the end and heave it up.

by the way, a Karndean roller is fantastic for EPDM.
Yeah I am wondering about 1 Vs 2 pieces. It's looking like bang on 100kg of rubber. I can buy that pre-joined but it is getting heavy even for 2 - roofers reckoned they could get a single piece but then they are used to this. Each side of the roof is 11.5x3.5m and the rear of the roof is hidden from sight so we could hide the seam. Initially I was nervous about DIYing a join but it doesn't look anything to worry about.
The other thought was to join with two strips the other way around, effectively make a feature of having the join dead-centre. But technically a join with overlapping pieces going down the pitch would be slightly safer anyway, same principle as overlapping slates.

I saw a trick laying the roll on a ladder in exactly the same way you describe on a board. Obvious when you know but I hadn't thought of it. In 50kg pieces I could conceivably do it solo with a bit of brain-power.
 

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