Search results

Thanks for confirming. Maybe it was T30 - it was installed circa 40yrs ago. I’ll crack on and buy my new replacement rads based on the (standard Delta T50 I assume) estimator tools. I’m mindful this will lead me to replacing with smaller rads. Anything I need to watch out for here to save...

Sorry; slightly vague question. My limited understanding is that I need a certain temperature differential between flow and return for new boiler to ‘condense’. My old boiler wasn’t a condensing type, so did anyone care too much. Would you agree that two type 22 double panel rads at 300mm x...

I started to size up my radiators and it leads me to wonder if my previous rads were generously oversized. For example, in the lounge I had two type 22 double rads that are each 300mm x 1,450mm. I’m guessing their combined output would be well in excess of the 4,819 BTU I’m getting from the...

Thanks - it’s a brand new combi boiler fitted / sized by my plumber so should be fine. It’s currently only running a small UFH zone in new extension. The main house flow/return zone for conventional rads not yet connected. I’m sourcing the new / replacement rads before power flush full...

Thank you again - a midpoint seems a good idea / compromise. Where I can’t hit the actual BTU - I was thinking I’d go for the nearest but always on the plus side. Am I right to assume a TRVs to each rad, gives me some accuracy latitude. D:-)

Thanks reply. As regards breaching the gap - on the narrower wall; in places, there was a fair bit of debris in the gap. Would it be sensible to model the narrower 240mm wall as a ‘SOILD WALL 200mm’ And the wider 270mm wall as a ‘BRICK CAVITY’. Best D

Hi there - not sure if this is a heating or building forum question. I’m looking to replace some old rads (circa 50yrs) and I’ve been using a couple of on-line BTU calculators that provide broadly similar results. My question is about how I describe my outside walls in those calculators. My...

Thanks for the advice - much appreciated. I’ll use a 5:1 as you’ve recommended. Do you think a Plasticiser necessary. The fireplace mortar is heavily lime based. Best D

Picked up some Aerated Blocks. They’ll pretty much fill the opening. I’ll have some generous gaps down the jambs to fill. And I’ll have to cut the top one in (I’m assuming I’ll leave the old rusty steel in place). It looks more straightforward than my original Soft Red option - thank you...

Thanks reply like these ? Best D

Question to all; any thoughts / advice on this Quite tempted to have a go All Best D

Thanks for talking time to reply NOSEALL. It’s a back to back chimney in three rooms that’s blown plaster everywhere. The plan is to hack back to brickwork, inject a liquid DPC then new render/plaster. The plaster will be a lime restoration plaster and gypsum skim. I did wonder if this might...

Hi there - I want to close off / delete an old fireplace and grateful of some advice. I’ve removed the brick surround, mantle and firebox. It’s had some damp - the lime base mortar is very soft.. The bricks are (very) Soft Reds and are quite fragile. I’d like to fix in a frame to support some...

Thanks reply. Soil there is very loose. There was a shed there (that I removed) so it hasn’t been at all compacted. Best D

Grateful of a recommendations for setting up the pads. I don’t want a full concrete slab. Thanks D

Thanks reply. I’m thinking about viability of a flat-pack container. The manufacturer recommended the six pads / provided a siting plan. Best D

Hello All, I’m looking at a project where I’d like to make use of some surplus’s 2’x2’x2” concrete slabs as support pads. Grateful of some advice if I’m on the right track….. I’m looking at making a base (about 4m x 2m) that will sit on six evenly spaced raised paver-pads. Should I dig out...

Everyday is a school day - I’d no idea on that as an option. I just went for the type (400 series) I’d previously fitted. I’ll have a look at available space in cistern. Failing that, I’ll fit the DCV. Thanks for clarifying the regs and the heads up to the Air-Gap variant. Best D

Thank you for the link to helpful WRAS Certification Statement; that clearly states I should have a DCV (irrespective of the built in anti-siphon). This is likely a silly question - an air gap / AUK1 on a cistern; I’m guessing with a bottom fill I don’t have one but how do I know ? Thanks D

Thank reply. Instructions just refers to ‘supply pipe’. Best D