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Around 100 year old i belive it use to have a cast range fitted , you can see where the front has been bricked up but all that brick work above is orginal as you can see the black coal dust mortar what was used in these houses but dont get what its all rammed in all ways thats what makes me...

Hi guys so ive chipped back this chimney breast on this house and its not what i was expecting.. it looks like some work has been carried out in the past to brick work maybe to reduce the dept of the breast why is the face so ruff looking and not laid in a stretcher bond fashion or has the...

Thanks yeah , im fitting a new dpc along the whole of the inner skin i have this last section to do but ive uncovered how poor this corner is , like i say the house once returned here so this would of been the corner of the house and carried on where the red lines are , the builder ad the time...

Hi guys attached few images so you can see where im working on , the end part of the wall where the door is used to be a return for the end of the house before a extension was added where they have broken the end of the wall off its all a mess and i want to rebuild but there is 3 lintels coming...

But my question would be where this closer of brick has been left from when there once was a door there should i carry removing it all the way to the top ?

God knows there has been no work done in this house for over 40 year dont know how all the rubbish has got in there.. maybe when the windows was changed all the years ago like i say these bricks are not on sand and cement its like a a mixed pit coal dust something they had a go using all the...

Here you can see where it goes over ive done about 1 meter up is there any need me going all the way up ?

Following on from what ive said about looking at old plans i belive this is where the old front door used to be which has been bricked up so i could presume that the bridge of brick over the cavity would of been to close the cavity for the door opening so would there be any issue me taking all...

This is grabbed off another page but is basically how its built at the moment my feeling is penetrating damp can come across from the external wall as there is no dpc method been using on the vertical run

Pictures not the best but you can see how the white paper wall would go over

Yeah i have kept one lenght of dpc all the way there is no joins in it One issue i have is one of the internal brick walls goes right over the cavity and joins the external wall i dont know if it has been build like this for strengh or what ive the bottom section away but dont want to carry on...

Also to note im only doing this on the internal skin not both skins at oncs

Thanks for the advice yeah the cavity was full of crap... the bricks in this house dont have sand and cement between them its like coal dust mix what they was trying meaning the bricks come out very easy you dont need to hammer so much to get them out as you would if they was sabd and cement. Im...

The outside wall are brick cavity walls The inside dividing walls are single brick down to the ground and they have damp issues aswell so was going to do the same with them

Hi guys so trying to fix a issue with rising damp on the internal skin and inter solid bricks walls my plan is to go along taking the bricks out bit by bit in stages and install a dpc like the images shows , just to get advice im i doing this correct and will method work ? i understand you can...

Yeah thats a point i mean it could bypass the one on the domestic side and still blow the dno one

Haha yeah maybe a future plan but no i just though the mondern way if you was doing upgrades was to upgrade to a 100amp im learning and gaining a understanding like what does a average house run at amp wise any way near 60 80 or 100 im guessing not

yeah abit silly really i suppose one plus would be that if you did get to the 60amp limit and blow it your blowing your own fuse that you can replace if you blew the main service fuse whats the time scale of being with no power for the dno to come replace the fuse ? ive mentioned to BG that i...

Ok thanks i just though going to 100a was the modern way to go , on the current setup i have the dno supply meter and consumer all in the same area i have BG coming out to fit a isolator switch as the current setup dont have one If i keelp the current 60a supply and the meter and supply stays...

Cavity has been full of **** so all been wet in there likey what has made them rot ive been cleaning it out