Search results for query: gap foam

Fire foam is not rated for gaps wider than 50mm. Pack with rockwool first, for better sound and fire insulation, then foam.

Its looking good. Generally you can fill gaps with expanding foam, low expansion foam, bits of foam or insulation, or just more plaster and scrim tape to stop it cracking

Squirt some foam in, put the trims back on or plaster the gap.

Expanding foam and/or mastic will deal with the gap for air tightness. Grouting is pointless.

What is "foam applying"? Expanding foam is a gap filler more than anything, not for insulating surfaces. You may need a quick setting and low expansion product instead

There should be no gaps or draughts. Normally, there is a foam/rubber eaves filler between the frame and sheets

You'll have to wait and see. It's the wrong foam for cavity fill Cavity foam injection is a different foam, with different properties, expansion and cell formation (not hollow like this canned stuff) You should have just pointed the gap up with mortar or a mastic

All gaps need to be sealed to prevent air leakage. Use expanding foam, then plaster over

Yes fill any gaps with expanding foam for larger gaps, or silicone seal or caulk. Or whatever really. It won't matter to the wall or floor. Don't get hung up on wall moisture balancing.

Fire foam (Blue 60 comes to mind) and architrave. BCO's do not inspect gaps around doors behind architraves.

You can't cover a gap with tape. Any gap is a pocket of air and that presents a condensation risk.

Foam can push the insulation board out and created gaps or uneven filling. Its OK for joints. I can't really understand what the problem is, as a board or boards of insulation can be cut to fit between those timbers and foam is not even necessary.

First bonkers thread of the year! First the massive gap at that place with no reason, then the plan to use foam, then the plan to use 1m cover strips.

Foam can be used but may be fiddly on smaller gaps. Slithers of the insualtion can be cut, or some tubes of caulk or sealant can be used.

Pink foam in all the gaps, cut the wires. Remember the next time you buy a house, check the loft out before you buy.

Ram some mortar in it really tight and full. Or likewise with slate. Not foam or anything that can compress or shrink. If the gap is full the bricks wont move

Push some mortar, knock some wedges, or squirt some foam into the gaps if they are more than 10mm, to stop the board twisting. No need for extras fixings

That's a small gap. For the cost and time of foam, mastic/adhesive and trim, you may as well just squirt two tubes of mastic in and smooth it with your finger.

Foam is not waterproof, and not an option. And your options of filling holes from the underside are nil.