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The purlin prop won't affect your new lintel; any load will just go down vertically against the new door jamb.

Its survived the Luftwaffe in 1940, Dunkirk and D-Day. The atomic bomb over Japan didn't shift it, and it survived the Suez Crisis and the later Cuban Missile crisis, not to mention JFK's assasination. The £-in-your pocket devaluation of 1967 had no effect, nor did the Winter of Discontent. It...

Whether or not its a serious issue depends on a) the depth of the cut; b) the depth of the joist and c) the span of the joists. Can't really tell much of that from the pic. Usually a notch near the end of the span is not as critical as one nearer the centre of the span.

A good beam would be a 152 x 152 x 23, with 6mm plate welded underneath. If supporting 3 courses of dense block cavity wall (and no load from the roof), the deflection would be around 3mm. If there are 2 or 3 block courses above, put a couple of 30 x 5 steel straps built into the inner skin and...

Yes, I think even replacing non-permeable with alternative non-permeable would still need P.P. (which of couse you probably wouldn't get). :<(

A quick way to find the size of a new pier is to work out the horizontal wind load on a portion of the wall and assume the wind is trying to push it over. Then, assume that all the wind load is to be resisted by the pier alone, and then work out the weight of pier required to more than...

yup, we'll give it a try.

The size of the buttress (face width and thickness) mainly depends on 3 things: 1. the height of the wall from ground level; 2. the length of the wall (or length to the nearest buttress; 3. the thickness of the wall (and whether it is solid, or built with separate skins).

I understand what you're gettting at, but the most experienced engineer in the world wont be able to do the sums unless as a minimum they knew the size, spacing and grade of the bars. By the time they found this out by digging around, it might be too late!

A beam continuous over two spans will have a reverse ('hogging') bending moment over the centre (party wall) support. This reverse moment reduces the bending stress in the spans each side. Once the beam is cut at the party wall, you immediately loose that hogging moment and thereby increase the...

Concrete blockwork is known for shrinkage cracking - nothing unusual there. They usually put movement joints in about every 6m or so - that's why its cracked near the middle.

Yes, I was curious about 'tin'. Presumably it refers to coated steel roofing as used for large industrial buildings? But if so, the profile might look too large-scale for a small bay roof. And cutting/fitting metal sheeting is not particularly easy.

First of all, you won't be able to straighten them, if that was your aim?; they will have a permanent bend. If you remove the floor boarding, you can screw the new joists to the sides if the existing joists with 100mm x 6 coach screws @ 200 centres, staggered near the top and bottom. You can...

That timber is known as a runner, and it would have been supported off a large timber (purlin) vertically above it via a few strips of thin timber hangers. The runner is there to support the ceiling joists midspan, otherwise they would have been over-spanned..

Perhaps bite the bullet and glue PIR-insulated plasterboard on it, though it will be about 32+mm thick (it has its own integral vapour barrier). (A bit late now but too many SEs specify box section for these fabricated beams, whereas an open I-section beam is easier to pack insulation into and...

Nothing wrong with your proposal. In fact it will help to tie the gable back to your new floor structure, enhancing lateral stability. Any weight you put on the new floor will hardly impact on the existing beam. The wall looks soundly-built in 9" solid brickwork - some in that position are only...

Someone slamming the gate? Short one brick x one brick piers are never very stable, you can't rely on the mortar adhesion (such as it is) when subject to repeated horizontal force. Don't know the cost of repair, but if you just get it re-built or re-mortared, it will fail again.

Doesn't look like anything particularly serious - maybe a too-short bearing of the lintel over the window putting additional stress on the edge of the brickwork. It would be better if you could show a pic from further back so that we could see the context.

125 x 65 or 150 x 75.

RHS is unnecessarly expensive for that sort of loading - a channel '[' section would be just as effective and cheaper. Timber is also perfectly OK, depending on what maximum deflection you can put up with; 2 or possibly 3 piece of C24 screwed together, depending on the load. It's not just the...