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I'd like to wall mount a new bathroom sink rather than having to use a pedestal. It's fairly small at only 550mm wide by 385mm deep. Obviously the sink includes the standard bolt holes behind the basin itself but I don't know if these are only mean to prevent the basin moving away from the wall...

As per question about RCBO. Yes, it's a dedicated 2.5mm cable going back to a dedicated 16A RCBO (only feeds UFH). No real room for confusion. Conduit is al indoors (in kitchen) so no real likelyhood of corrosion. That said, I like belt and braces so might well see about squeezing in a...

I gather it is okay to rewire with singles because they would still be sheathed in the earthed conduit? If I could use the conduit as earth then a single 2.5mm Live and Neutral will easily fit within the space vacated by the 1mm T&E. This would solve both the impedance and overcrowding issues...

Wow, a lot of traffic! Well, the justification to change the cable is actually quite simple as it turns out. In practice, the heat from the cable warms up the metal conduit which then conducts to the metal back box. This then falsely tells the thermostat (mounted in the back box) that the...

Yeah, I agree, just a load of hassle and in the meantime, a freezing cold house. Was hoping to be told it'd be okay but my gut feeling is that it needs sorted. Pain in the arse is that I'd normally do this kind of job myself (and would have used 2.5mm) but thought I'd go the legit route and...

It's not 'hot' just quite warm. Other cables are the thermostat return from under the floor and the output of the thermostat to the underfloor element (a nice heavy flex). The question is whether adding a 1.5mm or 2.5mm cable would make things better given that it would get even more packed...

Yes, sorry, tightly packed with other cables. Suspect that might be the problem. That said, is it actually okay for it to be warm during use? iep

This has been run in tightly backed steel conduit. Gets quite warm when in use. iep

Had an electrician come in and install the wiring for an underfloor heating system (electric, 3kW). He has used a 1mm T&E cable to run from the fused outlet to the 'stat/control box for the heating and the cable is getting very warm while in use. I'd never have thought a 1mm cable would be up...

My roofer is also saying that a 100mm soil pipe is normal for extractor hoods. I don't mean to doubt but is seems odd to reduce the pipe diameter from the output of the extractor fan. That said, if 100mm is used everywhere then I guess it works fine for most applications? Cheers, iep

Thanks, I think I'll need a 125mm pipe as that is the output diameter on the cooker hood (instructions state narrower diameter pipe will cause issues). Sounds like a basic plastic pipe with a mushroom cowl is an acceptable solution though? Cheers, iep

I need to run a cooker hood extraction vent through a flatish (6 degree) roof. I've been on the Klober site and all the roof vents they show seem to be for roof space ventilation rather than mechanical extraction from a cooker hood or similar. Roof is single ply rubber and the guy who...

Hi. I'm finishing the install of my G2 system and have got to the point where I configure the users (all zones and detectors are up and running). The system has up to 23 users as far as I can tell but I only want to have two users (me and my missus) or ideally one if we can both essentially...

Great info, many thanks. On holiday this week but will try this out as soon as I get back. Cheers, iep

I'm installing a Galaxy G2-20 panel with mk7 keypad, C079-2 G2 RF portal and two AG8 bell boxes. All is going fine and I think everything is communicating okay (RF portal communicates 'tamper switch open' to keypad when cover removed so seems to have been recognised by the main panel and the...

Scrub that, just found this: http://www.diynot.com/forums/alarms-cctv-telephones/galaxy-g2-alarm.367845/#2796094

Hi, hopefully this will be a simple question. I am currently installing a Honeywell Galaxy G2 20 panel with mk7 keypad and the RF portal (and 2 AG8 bell boxes). All was going fine until I got to the bit about unused zones. The manual includes the instruction below: NOTE: It is recommended...

Wow, fair amount of chat here. Cheers all. Sounds like my best plan then is to go with square edge (12.5mm). Thanks to all who contributed. FYI, the room has 2.8m walls and I'm doing the 5 degree ceiling too (3m each pitch) so joining the square ends of the tapered board would have been an...

Hmm 50/50 at the moment. I can see reasons for both. Anyone else got any thoughts? iep

I'm boarding out a room this weekend in prep to get a plasterer in. Planning to have the whole room skimmed so do I use taper edge or square edge plasterboard? Ta iep