Search results

Total guess here, but probably the rubber seals have started to degrade, so won't seal properly. Tightening the bolts isn't enough, you would need to dismantle and replace the seals.

I am now convinced that it's the seal where the motor shaft goes in to the pump, because the dripping does not happen when the machine is not running. Here's the proper part, £20. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006911096181.html

I'm such a mindless brute, once it was on its side, there's the access panel, so the jisgaw rests easy. Unfortunately there's water around the microswitch 1, can't explain that. If I shine a torch into 2 it looks wet, so I suspect it's actually leaking through the bearings. The hose clips I got...

Seeing as the ball and chain is on holiday for two weeks [she bought it], I think I am going to turn the thing upside down and cut an access panel into it.

These are the clips: Very difficult to manoeuvre in there. The dishwasher is built around the black plastic base, seems like the pump was one of the first things to be fitted and then everything else was built on top. Pretty much guaranteed to be uneconomical to repair. :mad:

I was hoping you wouldn't say that! The hose clamps look like they're crimped on and not reusable [will post pictures later] so I think they will need replacing as well. Hylomar looks like RTV silicone? So presumably I could just get some silicone from Screwstation or whatever? [I'm impatient...

Currys Essentials CID60W16. Steady drip [about 1/second] from bottom of pump/heater assembly. This eventually trips the flood sensor about an hour in to the programme. I am working around it for now with a towel but want a better fix, because fishing a damp towel out of a live appliance is a...

Yes, fair bit of the elbow grease done for the OP there. Compare with the benches in the background! Timber that is regularly maintained simply wouldn't have that much stuff growing on it. I am not sure how well any coating or filler will stick if it hasn't dried out, however.

My guess would be that the timber in the pitted bits was already pretty rotten if it has come out like that.

Oiled finish is good IMO, it means you can re-finish and touch up without sanding it all back. Option 2, the edges won't look very nice [as they're not meant to be seen], so you could frame it with some strips of solid wood with mitred corners. You will want to keep on top of the finish, food...

Only need to use hardwood if you particularly care about the appearance or outdoor longevity.

Dropping something into the existing posts sounds like a winner.

I wouldn't bother.

That's why I usually do but in this case, it looks to me like there's no room to rotate them.

In the second picture, is that the "shutter" we can see through the window? If so, I would call them "Venetian blinds", probably a lot less torque required than a shutter. How are you going to sense open/closed?

Top-hinged door seems like an obvious way to trap fingers. However you do this, you'll need to get a good finish on it as the kids will probably tire of it but you will still need to live with how it looks!

Funnily enough, the Oregon Duoline I have is in slightly different packaging but was definitely lubricated with something as it has an oily finish.

How far apart are your studs? If they're within 16", drill the mounting bracket to match.

I have a Solis inverter. When the breaker it's on tripped, I got an email from Solis saying that something was wrong. Perhaps have a poke about in the Solar Edge portal and see what settings you've got.

A couple of points, but not really answers to anything you asked: - You can't lighten with stain, only darken. - If you're hoping to end up at the same colour everywhere....it's not impossible, but different starting points and different timbers mean that it's go to be quite tricky to get a...