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How about: 1) Remove/disconnect battery from inside alarm control panel (above CU). 2) Switch off MCB for alarm (downstairs lights). 3) WAIT If no alarm goes off, then battery inside bell box is dead.

Hmmm, I don't have a ladder that will reach that high. What if I try just switching off my MCB downstairs lights at CU (hence disabling power to alarm and external bell box) and WAIT? If the house alarm doesn't go off then that would mean the battery in bell box is truly dead. Is this a good...

I don't want the alarm to work at all! I want all electricty to it STOPPED. When I say 'lights' I mean that the alarm is powered by the houses' normal (downstairs) lighting circuit. If I switch the 'downstairs lights' MCB in the consumer unit to off position, ALL power to alarm is gone (but I...

I have an intruder alarm installed in my house that is powered by the lighting circuit. It was installed around 25 years ago. This is the consumer unit: This is the alarm unit, installed above the consumer unit: There are several of these motion sensors throughout my home: This is...

The above is a direct quote from the company I emailed regarding putting up a new shed. What are "4x2 pressure treated battens" ? And what does "we would out down" mean?

As there has been little response to my question, can I presume that doing this the simple way with nothing but flat placed batons/posts between the earth and floor of shed is adequate?

I think my shed is needing replaced, it's around 27 years old: It also lets in the rain. I read that before placing a shed; you can prepare the land/bedding for the new one (i.e. geotextile fabric, aggregates, compaction, sand), put slabs down and then build a new shed on top? I contacted a...

You're talking about hammering the wall plug through to the other side completely intact? Doesn't the collar make a bigger hole that way?

Job done! I was surprised how easily the metal collars of the wall hooks broke by use of long nose pliers. Thanks for help.

These are wall anchor thingies. I'd like to remove them from the 12mm thick board without wrecking the board. Any tried and tested way!?

These are photos from my kitchen: Close up: You can see two power supply cables (cooker hood and fan heater) going into that wall (socket?) thingy. Is it possible to remove this ‘thingy' and replace it with a standard (double) socket so that the heater and cooker hood could be plugged...

The heater cannot be taken apart due to the nature of the fastenings. The heating element touches the metal that has been bent so it isn’t safe to use. I either need to remove the dent or dispose of the heater. Advice please? It doesn't need to be perfect. The main thing is to pull...

Despite these the double conical washers, I still could not manage to get the cistern watertight. There was still a trickle (albeit minute) of water making its way down the screws, causing occasional drips. I then added an M6 washer to use between the screwhead and the metal washer like this...

Brilliant video! Wish I'd seen it yesterday. I've ordered the dual washer cone kit.

Looked at the pack, there are plastic wing nuts supplied. I have installed this incorrectly.

It's the Armitage Shanks - Sandringham 21.

There was no wing supplied. I agree a wing nut is missing though to lock the underside bolt in position. I also think a rubber washer of sorts would help underneath as well to provide double seal. I am going to try this.

For clarity, the screw/bolt connects the cistern to the pan. I can't test the through bolts for leaks unless the entire toilet is put together. The entire toilet system is brandnew, including the doughnut. Are you saying that overtightening can cause leaks? These links don't link to the...