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thanks for the reply Oldun. soil pipe: I have added a photo of the soil pipe so you can see the problem - it's an old asbestos one and I really don't want to get involved with disturbing or replacing it if I can avoid it! so the lead slate isn't really an option. If I add the joists the...

Hi all. I have an existing lean-to with the old corrugated plastic roof that I want to replace. After some research I think a 10mm polycarbonate roof supported by timber joists is the best solution for me. I am reasonably confident of installing it myself and the flashing to weather the...

why not just plane the door down at an angle similar to that of the Z-bar ? will clear the tiles and bar but no un-sightly gap from bedroom when the door is closed. A bit more fiddly to be sure but nothing an electric plane won't sort out in 15-20 minutes 8)

ah, ok an un-finished CUT edge is not an option with any tile! I think tile-trim is the way to go. I would use the more expensive chrome / alluminium, but a white or black plastic version is also an option

that's a difficult call without seeing the tiles in question. with the 10mm thick modern glass tiles I often don't trim them with anything so the light shines through the edges which can look good. If I do trim the edge then a simple square-edged tile trim is normally the best option

the linseed oil / white spirit works fine - but for a quicker job I always use this: http://www.hgmaintenance.com/products/?applicationID=7 does the same job but only need to wait half hour before applying second coat 8)

I always use Ardex D-20 when tiling over existing tiles Ardex D20 in fact, it's what I use for virtually all wall surfaces except when using very large format tiles.

lol - certainly never even tried a 3-way mitre before.....might have to have a play next time. I get over the problem by only using square profile trim :p It makes for cleaner lines anyway imo.

do yourself a favour and listen to Richard :) personally I have no problem tiling over chipboard floors as long as it's overboarded properly...... however, if your existing tiles are stuck directly to chipboard, by the time you have chopped up the tiles, the chipboard will be knackered...

seriously, you will never get an accurate price per M2 without the tiler looking at the job and type of tiles. And different parts of the country vary considerably ! Personally I haven't priced per M2 for over 10 years - everything is based on how long the job will take me taking all of the...

both! :D

To be honest, you would do much better by saving up and doing it all properly. i.e. strip off all the tiles and lathe & plaster and re-board the walls from scratch. If you don't, all you are doing is storing up problems for yourself in the future. That being said there are always ways to "get...

I have no problem with tiling onto One coat plaster except when using.......the largest, heaviest, expensive, most out of square difficult to work with ones the wife can find :lol:

I have never sealed a sound concrete floor prior to tiling - only if it's very dusty / sandy

Ardex arditex latex levelling compound (with 1-2mm aggregate to bulk up the deeper patches

Think of the room as a whole. By my understanding you have 6 horizontal lines to consider: floor - shower tray - window cill - dado - window soffit - ceiling. try a full tile from shower tray and see where the joints come on all the other horizontal lines. If one turns out to be a tiny cut...

either live with the step, or.... don't lay the ufh right upto the door. leave about a tile width away then "ramp" the last tile down to meet the dining floor. not an ideal solution but depends on how much you don't want a step :p

thanks for the advice guys the new boiler has just been installed and that's the only gas appliance in the house now....so that side of things is not an issue :) maybe I'll just block them temporarily for now to make sure condensation ain't a problem

Hi I have recently moved into a 1940's solid brick built house. All 3 bedrooms have large air vents on the exterior wall, which is making the rooms cold. They were obviously put in for a reason when built, but what is stopping me from just blocking them up ? Thanks for any advice :) Paul

quarter inch is very large for wall tile joints! be sure you use a "wide-joint" grout. after you put the grout in the joints, lightly sponge the joints diagonally across - this will stop the grout being dragged back out. only after the joints have firmed up do you want to run the sponge...