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Hi all, I've recently built a porch and have got to the stage where the plasterboard is up mostly. I just wondered if there's a need to plaster it? What are the benefits of plastering vs a good plasterboard and filler job? My board is dot and dabbed to brick wall if that makes any difference...

About 8yrs ago I went on holiday to bali and bought back this piece of drift wood. Local bar man seemed to think it was what they made the boats from. Possibly a piece of cedar. The region was Lombok for any wood enthusiasts. Anyhow I thought I'd make a nice house sign from it and wanted to...

Forgot to add....the door frame is right up against the window so I need to drill upwards for extra strength. How many fixings do you think I should do? I was think 2 in doorframe and 1 in window frame

Thanks for your replies. I have a few 70mm screws similar to the baypole or tek screws. I've been told I want it to go through lintel and into the mortar but to avoid the brick if possible. I'll recess the head and fit the door jam over it

Hi all, Looking for advice for fixing top of front door frame to metal IG box lintel. Above door frame is batten to plug the gap and above lintel is 3 courses of brick and a tiled apex roof. Please see picture below. Thanks

Thanks Alastair

Thanks for the reply. I shall be cutting the 5 extra tiles needed and bedding in the verge and ridge tiles. He did offer but I said I don't mind doing it and previously did the same with my garage build using the same builder for the roofing. Is anyone aware of a paint that sticks to rubber...

It is rubber on the left. The other part towards the right could be lead but I'm not fussed about that. I just wanted to cover the rubber somehow. Thanks

We have used a general builder for our porch roof. The porch joins into the lounge roof and at the valley between the two there is some rubber dipping down. Can I paint it with white paint or trim it back or stick something over it? I've attached a pic for reference Thanks

Thanks for your help. I have a paddle mixer. Do I need a spiked roller?

I shall be putting in lintels and a apex roof. Probably another 3 courses of bricks above the window frame. The door frame is made of wood but is north facing so I guess that works in my favour. I shall improve the expansion gap and go from there. Thanks for your help

The pier is filled with concrete and 2 bits of 12mm rebar. Pier side is where the hinges shall be. Other side is latch and lock.

The foam has at minimum 6inches of concrete on top. The screed would be for final adjustment prior to fitting a laminate floor. I was also thinking self levelling compound but have never used it myself

I am building a porch and have a window butting up against the existing house wall and the new door frame. Should I allow a small gap for expansion or is it not required? I'm worried it might affect the rigidity although I shall be running a length of angle iron along the top inside from wall...

Yes I made sure the base was level. What is the minimum depth screed I can do, 20mm? Thanks

Thanks for your advice (y)

Thanks for your reply. Just to add this is the open cell foam a bit like an EPS sheet and not like the closed cell insulation stuff. Im not sure I can tread on this stuff without causing it to break unless I use a board to spread my weight and fill up half the area then move the board to do the...

I have some anti heave foam board left over from a recent project. This weekend I was going to concrete the new porch floor with around 8inches of concrete to get upto dpc. Would there be any advantages to throwing this board in and putting concrete on top? Thanks for your help

Out of interest can anyone recommend any good places online that sell upvc windows?

Thanks for the replies. Yes as I can't guarantee the spec it's best to buy new and save the hassle. It's a shame as there's alot of good used stuff about