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Thanks Andy - that did the trick! Should I be concerned about the lack of earth wire? None of the switches have these and I've just had it all rewired!

Thanks Andy - I've added some pics. Things are a little more clear for me now. The middle switch has two cables in L1 as I have two seperate wall lights (duh!) To clarify, the wire that is currently in the com port on the right should be going into the left?

Hello, I replaced my white switches with some nicer BG ones, but in doing so I seemed to have messed up the three gang two way switch which was working as a one way switch. The switch controlled two seperate ceiling lights and one pair of wall lights. The situation I have now is the switch...

I've added a couple more pics to show the size of the room. The bigger room has the most visible dip, but both room are effected by what happened. The effected are in the big room is pretty much 2mx2m - from the wall to the middle of the pain splodge. As I will be laying down 6mm plywood...

The wall that I had knocked down by a builder and which is currently being signed off by buuilding control was sat in between the kitchen and dining room. The previous owner had already knocked through a wall between the lounge and the backroom. The floors in the picture are of the bedroom...

I've read the "how to level a very uneven floor" sticky, but wanted to double check before I order the material: 1) The floor in the upstairs bedroom has a very big dip of arround 25-30mm in over a 1.5m run before going back up again. The area that is suffering the dip covers two-thirds of...

That's what the decorator was saying - and the more I think about it, the more it makes sense. Unsure what finish for the skirting yet - something for the missus to look into!

I've just had my house replastered and all the old skirting has been ripped out. I've had a decorator around who advised I should get the skirting on first before getting him in to paint the walls/skirting, I was a little surprised by this. The builders (who is apparently also a painter)...

That sounds nice and simple :) The (newish) joists that can be seen in the pic are attached to original joists about a floorboard or two further in. The newish joists were put in by the previous owners when they removed the chimney breast. Would it be a good idea to take up the floorboards...

Thanks Adam - the joists don't extend the full length of the gap and only go as far as the brick from the previous wall....so I don't think will provide enough support for the floorboards? I suppose I could remove the bricks and get some new joists down. The area was part of a chimney and...

Thanks Ree - I'll update on the other thread and close this one. If the mods moved it, then maybe it's the best place for it.

(I thought I posted this yesterday - but can't seem to find the thread :?) I've had a wall removed between the dining room and kitchen and now have a gap where the wall was. I intend to lay vinyl tiles, but would like a solution which does not require a long drying out time. I hope the...

I've had the wall between the wooden floored dining room and concrete floored kitchen removed and now have a gap where the wall used to be. I intend to follow matts stickies on levelling the two floors as I will be laying some LVT, but am unsure on the best method to fill this gap which will...

Hello all - I've recently started a reno project and having gleaned as much info as possible from this excellent site, I thought I'd make my first post. I have an 826mm door in an internal loadbearing wall (upstairs joist is being supported by wall). The position of the door and the small-ish...