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Thanks Tony, all makes sense. The one question I have is that the steel has to have a minimum bearing of 100mm right. And so it would be on the outside face of these brick walls. Could this not lead to rust, mould, condensation and cold bridging? Do you have suggestions here on what then to...

Yes indeed, No legitimate paperwork, just papers of information on the work carried out. I'll try to sketch it out and go from there I guess

Thanks, changed to UB

Shall I just go up and unbolt the gallows?

So as some of you may have gleaned from my other post on RSJ and piers for the garage, I've ended up with a home that's half finished, and lots of "paperwork" on what's been done, and it's status. I'm about to consider the loft extension. Ive been told that previous renovations removed the top...

Thanks Tony, This is what I'm working with here: And some bits below just to clarify so I understand fully. And answer your last comments. Brick wall is 2.3m tall, the other block wall is 3.3m tall (it's built up from lower garden ground) but still at the same top level all the way round...

Also to add, the wall as you can see in the photos in the first post, does have stiffener single pillars. So I'm guessing that helps stop the inward outward collapsing I'm thinking about

Not at all

Should I worry about the single skin wall collapsing outward or inward rather than being crushed? If the steel is sat on top of it on either the plate or padstone, does it need to be bolted down? Or does the entire roof just need to be strapped down as normal?

Yes pretty much, opening is much bigger and I expect will need a steel above it. Joists will run from back wall to beam above garage door opening, because right side is wall facing garden

To give current standing. Front is open for double garage door - this will I assume be the same steel as for the centre of the building carrying roof/splitting roof in half The span from side to side is 5.7m The span from front to back is 5.7m

Building is 5.7 x 5.7. Beam will carry "both sides" of the flat roof /split in half ... I assume this doubles the 32.4kn though and changes calcs? if not, do I need to worry at all about lateral stability?

Thanks So you'd sit the steel straight onto e.g. 300 x 100 x 100 padstone on the single skin wall? Is that even enough beam sitting on the wall (100mm?) Or would you go for UC pillars/posts?

Thanks for this! I assume if this is concurred this is fine for both the midpoint joist support of the roof and the garage door opening? The "documents" I have don't have any details on them, they are handwritten copies of something, but there is an assumption of a 1.5-1.8kn/m² design load...

Thanks all, Stevie are you an SE? Perhaps we could engage?

That's what I thought, this was all handed to me by the previous owners. Out of curiosity what would be a better size? It's a simple flat cold roof.

The beam I've been told to use is a 203 203 UC 46, based on the 5.8m span. That's quite heavy no? Surely the single skin wall could just collapse with the weight of that plus roof End of beam would be covered with fascia yes.

100*100 with a top and bottom plate bolted to concrete foundation and to the single skin wall?

Any suggestions on alternative?

I have a building in the garden, which was originally a single garage, the brick wall is the original left side wall, the original right side brick wall was knocked down, and the rear original brick wall was then extended and joined with concrete heavy duty blockwork to make it a wider building...