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Thanks Bernard.. My current setup consists of a Pi and Arduino.. The controllers are switches/iPhone/iPad. My real concerns were how to connect the circuit to the CU and how to mount my current cheap relays. Now have a better idea on the type of relays i should go for and how to mount them, so...

Thanks Guys. @Bernard - your project looks great! I'm planning on ordering the relays, do I select the 240v coil relays or 6V coils? I'll also order the ULN2803 with the sockets to drive the relays but from your picture above the circuit looks quite complicated.. Any chance of sharing the...

Thanks Bernard. I'm looking to drive the relays from 5V logic level and switch 240V (230-240 coil?) I'll buy a couple of relays and test. The picture that you've referred to above is that something that you've worked on?

Thanks Bernardgreen, do you have any links?

Hi iggifer, I've not picked an particular CU but thought a industrial CU with the extra space would allow me to mount the relays. the relays would allow me to switch on/off each circuit. The output from the relays will power a particular room. Do you know a suitable CU that would allow me to...

I'm currently in the process of renovating my house and planning on adding automation. The initial automation piece will be the lighting circuit. I don't want to buy in a custom instal as I'm planning to add more devices and circuits to this system. I've already coded (some of) the software and...

Thanks JohnD - Funny you say that the plumber quoted for all 32mm work and only when on the job mentioned the downsize (and no cost reduction!) Thanks Madrab - unfortunately I'm initially installing the the MDPE pipe work first and will then will get the water company to connect up a new...

Currently I'm having an 32mm pipe installed from the road (water board valve) to the house. However, the plumber has advised me to downsize the pipe when inside the property to 25mm and then place a stop tap. However, my thoughts are as I have a 32mm to the house the pipe should be 32mm...

Thanks, as mentioned I've used EOL for my PIR's would you recommend EOL for the surface contact?

The contact that I have has six screws.. Picture of the contact: http://isyn.co.uk/contact.JPG

I'm trying to wire a magnetic surface contact to my texecom 24 alarm system and needed some advice since the packaging was lacking instructions. The contact has 6 connections from which I guess are: 3-4: the inner two are the tamper connections 2-5: the next outer two are wired...

What I have done is the following: SPK -> SPK- -12v -> Aux - +12v -> Aux + BA -> Bell (external sounder) T -> Aux/Fault T -> Aux/Fault I have added a 2k2 resistor across the SPK and +12v. No resistor on the control panel tamper circuit. This seem to work but if anyone can...

Just wiring a Pyronix sounder to a Texecom 24 premier and I'm not sure if I have the correct wiring.. Pyr -> Premier SPK -> SPK- -12v -> Aux - +12v -> Aux + BA -> Bell (external sounder) T -> 0v (external sounder) or the Aux/Fault T -> Tamp (external...

got it... I can see from the system text which part arm number. Thanks

Thanks that's great but there's part omit 1, 2 and 3.. On the control panel there evening, bed time 1 and bed time 2. Therefore if I want to 'omit part set 2' on zone 4 I'm guessing this is bed time 1? Is there an mapping for these anywhere?

I was wondering how you would configure the control panel so I could just alarm only the downstairs i.e. at night? I wanted it so it's easy (i.e. wife) can set by entering a code and select an option. Is this better by using areas? or omitting options? any other recommendations? Thanks

Just checked the LED switches off after a delay :)

Ok, cool sorted.. I'll leave that idea alone unless once triggered the smoke detector LED doesn't reset (hopefully it does). Thanks sparky!