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The frustrating thing is, I moved the whole panel from there because access was basically impossible. I mean really — most of the old panel had to be cut out just to remove it. The issue is that the 6000L water tank was installed after the borehole had been dug and the control panel set up, and...

Yep That's not a bad plan, it's only a hole a gland and some HR07N cable to a cooler location which would be directly behind the tank itself which perfectly blocks the sunshine !

Yep, good idea - I've just coded a three minute delay on the interlock relay so it can't restart for three mins. Which is what the mrf states 20 starts per hour at equal intervals. So when the power draw goes below 600w (it's just a threshold trigger, so going through it works) the normally...

It's white already - unfortunately.

I am going to add some of these and also I did not know that a thermal LRD16 is temperature compensated up to 60° which should be enough. So that plan is to replace the existing contactor with a LC1D18U7 and plug the LRD16 into it. You can't set the trip curve on the LRD16 unlike the electronic...

LR9 series - electrical overload protection as opposed to thermal based units. Hence the cost. Probably the D08 would be the one. 8A max with a C20 starting curve and automatic reset if it even ever trips...

Hi all, I'm running a borehole pump in a 20-year-old well, primarily used for irrigation during the warmer months (not livestock). Over the past year, we've drawn around 1000 m³ through the system at about 16 GPM (60 LPM). The pump is a 230 V, 6A absorption-type, drawing around 1242 W at a 0.9...

Stopcock works a treat and the cock on the water meter also works - so we are well covered - for which we are grateful. Yeah ok - so looks like I'll be chopping out in the ceiling where there is a nice straight run and primofit onto that - as opposed to the vertical which we will otherwise have...

Hmm - interesting, thank you. In that case, the only reason for disturbing it at all is to modify the existing circuits to basically split what will be remaining hard feed into kitchen tap and softener feed - and then the connecting the softener return to the rest of the house. But disturb it...

Thank you for the answer - can I check that I have understood correctly that we are drinking water which is passing through a lead pipe? Or is that a sleeve for another material perhaps? The previous owners in their 80's had lived here over 50 years and are not suffering mentally, which is why I...

The photo shows the main junction of pipe work in our property and all my questions centre around the steel cold water feed pipe and its unions. The water comes from the meter, under another room about 4m run from the meter and emerges in this room behind this panelling. The water then passes as...

Thanks for the reply, Is that a viable option? Is ‘resin’ a suitable material? Where can I find the right resin? Sounds better than pulling it all apart! Sorry if this is al common knowledge, not to me it isn’t. Thanks again

Our 20mm marble hearth stone has cracked in a fairly central position. The crack is all the way through, but weirdly is wide at the front and closed near the fire. To properly fix this will require re-painting the 7x3m wall [we just had painted] plastering the damage we do finding the fixings...

Thanks very much for your help guys. The whole point is to avoid costly redecoration [again] which was recently completed. So no fitting changes or wall damage allowed. Fitting an additional wire for the dimmer circuit is therefore out. I'll return this and get him to fit the voltcon triac...

Ok. I did check this compatibility sheet (p35) to ensure this ballast “HF-R 158 TLD EII” would work and the diagram in the first post was its wiring diagram. It is specified as the only compatible dimmable ballast for that tube and specified as AC input. Which is the reason for my confusion and...

Ah . . . many thanks. So for this tube, no ballast is needed, just the standard trailing edge dimmer ? It says dimmable, "depends on ballast" in its specs - which is where I guess my understanding probably went off tracks.

I have asked my [friendly] electrician to fit a dimmable LED ballast with dimmable LED T8 tubes to two T8 batons. His time is money and I prefer to pay him for doing the practical stuff I need as opposed to all the theory and questions which I prefer to understand myself. I am just wondering if...

I am looking for any gotchas or obvious points I might have overlooked in the following plan: I’ve never done floor digging and repairing before, or burying pipes – but done plenty of DIY and plumbing so reasonably confident. I am replacing a concrete buried 15mm copper pipe + compression...

I am looking for any gotchas or obvious points I might have overlooked in the following plan: I’ve never done floor digging and repairing before, or burying pipes – but done plenty of DIY and plumbing so reasonably confident. I am replacing a concrete buried 15mm copper pipe + compression...