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At one point, I think the Outlander was also a re-badged Peugeot model. (5008, maybe)? Not sure if this one is later than that.

Personally, I'd prefer Option B). The dirtiest, most contaminated fluid in the system is likely to be at the wheel cylinders where all the water gets thrown around. However, I have used both methods in the past, with no ill effects. Some older cars need weight on their back wheels for the...

I agree with Wayners. Assuming you've checked obvious things like fuses, the gas pressure in there is probably too low to allow the pump to cut in. The most likely explanation is gradual loss of gas over time. In particular, if not used regularly, the seals in the compressor can dry out a bit...

Ah, the old Dunlop gauges! For us, it was soot from the inside of any particularly dirty tailpipe, but the effect was the same... The poor unfortunate was then usually sent off on various errands round the company to ensure that the maximum number of people got to see it!

I can remember seeing one, once, as a kid. My parents had a Citroen DS and my dad would swear by on-the-car balancing. The car might have had a slightly bent driveshaft or something, because balancing the wheel off the car was never quite as good. Obviously, it then means you need to mark the...

Er... I'm not? I get new tyres when I need them (which is rather more often than you, because I actually drive my car quite often), I get the wheels balanced, and then there are no vibrations. It's so easy! I did once have a new pair of tyres fitted and they didn't do a very good job of...

I have an alternative hypothesis... You are a very low annual mileage, low speed, largely urban driver, with absolutely no mechanical empathy whatsoever. Indeed, your excessive protestations about how "in-tune" you are with all things engineering, coupled to your lack of willingness to change...

Doesn't really matter "where" - anywhere that causes the wheels to go round and round would do. Speeds? Well it depends on the wheel and how sensitive the driver is. Back in the 1960s when rims and tyres were very narrow, cars were slower, and chassis dynamics weren't up to much, you could...

:rolleyes: He's making the same mistake as you - although at least he acknowledges it! He's trying to statically balance his wheel. Which is fine if you don't want to drive anywhere...

Then crack-on! It's not my car, so I really don't give the proverbial rat's ass! :ROFLMAO: You've posted enough now, for me to know that you're a poor driver with little grasp of engineering principles and a couple of badly maintained, elderly cars, who doesn't drive much. If you feel you...

It won't work. That's what will happen. A wheel and tyre assembly is a 3-D object. A "cylinder", rather than a "disc". Tyre balancers such as you're showing there, will only work for a thin disc. Naturally, I don't expect you to believe me, but that's of little consequence to me. Put a 25...

:ROFLMAO: good luck....:rolleyes:

No, not a world expert, just bright enough to know the things I know a reasonable amount about, and those I don't. (A strategy that has served me well, over the years)... I didn't know there were different valves for alloy and steel rims, for example, so I've learned something from this thread...

I would have thought, *especially* if you were the world's top expert! ;)

:ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: Ah... always the conspiracy rather than the reality...:rolleyes: The mechanism is well understood, (well, by sane people, at any rate...) Asbestos-free pads tend to contain ferrous compounds in the friction material. They're way harder than...

No...:rolleyes: The iron is dust from your brake discs and pads... :rolleyes:

Yeah... it does that...:unsure:

He'll balance his own, on a balancing machine of his own invention, forgetting that balancing wheels is a 3-D problem... ;)

Ah... I can see this turning into another "Nutjob" thread... :rolleyes: Step 1 - ask for advice; Step 2 - receive advice; Step 3 - disagree with advice and turn the thread into a 10 page slanging match... The "bumps" that you can see, are because the oxides of aluminium that make up the...

If you really wanted to do it, you'd be best ff bead blasting the rim, filling all the pinholes and crevices with filler, sanding and etch-priming. Then paint whatever you like over the top, but it's much easier to go to a tyre place and ask them to use the stuff that Mottie mentioned.