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I've got some issues with damp on a 1915 bungalow (mostly cavity), it's effecting most external walls around the house. I had someone check the guttering and render (both were fine) but he advised installing channel drains around the perimeter. Channel drains are fine but there's a lot of...

I've moved into a rural property where there's no mainline gas and the cooker runs off a cannister. However the previous owner removed the fittings and left a bare unterminated 10mm pipe connected to the cooker (runs to exterior). I bought a butane cannister and need a regulator, however, the...

On further reading, it seems like exposure is an issue, I'm on the West Coast of Scotland, so not ideal - however, I've got damp issues just now, so at least this would give a fighting chance of resolving it. I hadn't considered the roof though, and how that could be extended to cover the...

Ah ok Grinch, I know it's relative (to depth) but I just thought the r-value of PIR was still far superior to fibre wool. It'd been a while since I researched but on checking again, it's seems only twice as effective (I.e. 50mm PIR = 100m wool). I think there's 50mm wool in much of it...

Thanks, I did consider that but I thought going internal would be more expensive. Also, we'd have to tear out the kitchen and I don't want to lose any more internal space. It's 2 external walls, about 40 sqm coverage in total, any idea of cost?

I recently moved into a bungalow, where the majority of the house has cavity walls. However, there is an extended room at the back of the house which was built with a single skin of brick. There's damp issues here and I'm wondering how best to address it, as well as possibly improving the...

I've recently moved into a bungalow, with an attic conversion, there's a little mineral wool scattered among the ceiling joists (of the ground floor) but nothing on the pitched roof. I'd like to put in kingspan (or similar) to improve insulation but, having done the job of friction fitting the...

Got a random request, I couldn't think of a better place to put it but figured a few petrol heads might have experience with some light mechanical engineering :cautious: I'm looking to get a motorised winder built for a print finishing machine, basically it'd be an arm with a spindle that I...

Thanks to AndyPRK, that was it - I presumed it was fluorescent due to appearance but obviously not!

Had a good google but I can't find what kind of fitting this tube is (around 22cm long), could anyone help? (y)

No worries SFK, just happy to get your informed opinion (y) And thanks for the link but the low-profile light was intended/a consideration for external light.

It's just a small shop SFK, I'll need to worry about breaking even before anything like a lighting architect! Thanks for the link, I had read similar articles when setting the shop up and I'm happy with it internally but revisiting some of the points you list will definitely help. The 35w ones...

Yeah, as well as internal lighting I've also got 4x35w spots shining in the window display but it's not doing much. The shop looks very dark from outside but we were aiming for a cosy feel inside and I'd guess the only way to make it visible from the outside is to be very bright inside. Damn...

Thanks SFK - looks more like it but 25w isn't likely to be bright enough in daylight hours is it?

My spark's very busy so can only come to fit, he just said "check out commercial light places". I had seen the trough lights thanks Rocky, but thought they'd be too visible, looking for more discreet.

I've got a small shop and I want to light the sign on the shopfront - the swan neck sign lights are one option but I'm also considering something that might give a soft glow under/uplighting the sign, if anyone could recommend anything? I had considered flexible LED striplights (IP65) but not...

No, not yet - I wanted to get some info on if this (Accenta) might be a viable option at a lower price.

Yes, it'd been discussed at length!

Sorry, my mistake, it was the Premier24 (which is around 3 times the price?). Looks like I'd lose at least the key-fob facility? And is the reliability as good as Texecom?

I do still have the original part and note of original wiring config - I did have a spark check it out, he's connected it but says he's by no means sure it's correct (yet to test it o_O ).