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For practical purposes yes. Firstly it will be "non-inductively wound" (I suggest you Google it) and secondly, any capacitive or inductive component will change the power factor of the heater. However, as you don't pay for the imaginary power even though it has to be generated (again Google it)...

I know a lot of people say this, but where exactly in the regulations does it say that you can't "borrow" a safe zone? I read through the 17th edition and could not find anything saying that. The safe zones are simply defined in terms of horizontal and vertical areas from outlets. I can see why...

If you have wicking of moisture from your FLOORBOARDS up the wall then you have much much bigger problems than fixing your skirting to the wall that need addressing first, before your floor rots and you fall through. If only you had read the original post :) So back to a house with a suspended...

If the inner wall is not keyed into the outer wall, then the you could use a stone saw with water dust suppression to cut along the mortar lines, at which point the bricks of the inner wall will just lift off with a little plying with a chisel. The idea is that by cutting with the stone saw you...

That is complete and total rubbish. Heat is unaffected by gravity. Warm air rises but this is NOT the same thing as heat. As such the heat in an area above an unheated space will firstly conduct through any flooring, and will then radiate into the cold area. The rate of conduction is dependant...

In terms of performance they are I guess both the same. For lots of lofts the loss of height might not be important. I can stand up in mine no problem. To be honest I had done several with the "CLS" method before I hit on the idea of just using 100mm Celotex. My sister wanted her new house...

Because it is not much cheaper, its more work, adds more weight to the loft joists that are generally not sized to carry flooring, and you loose more height in the loft if you want to achieve the same amount of insulation. Some people talk utter nonsense, and have a very poor grasp of...

My recommendation is forget the CLS and get some 100mm Kingspan/Cellotex or similar. Just cut the Kingspan into strips so you can get it through the loft hatch lay over the joists and cover with the chipboard. A few (and I mean a few) 150mm screws can hold the chipboard in place. My top tip for...

Generally speaking you can buy skirting boards in suitable sizes and styles, just not at B&Q. Here is a link to a web site to give you an idea of what you can buy. https://skirtingboardsdirect.com/ Another option is to recover a small length of the existing board, and find a decent joinery...

The best thing to do would be to forget the link from socket1 to socket2 (rip it out or partially rip it out and use as the link from socket 1 to socket 7) and link the proposed sockets 6 and 7. That way you have everything on the ring bar the proposed socket 5. That said you give the...

Often re-tapping does not work, and yes there is never going to be a problem with a 4.75mm hole in the lug because the existing hole is at it widest 3.5mm so an extra 1.25mm is nothing. I just thought this was a more professional and better solution (aka not a bodge) than gluing stud extensions...

Has anyone tried using something like these (3.5mm clinch nuts) for repairing back boxes where the thread on the lugs is damaged? http://appianfasteners.com/pem-cls-m3-5-0-m3-5-clinch-nut-stainless-bag-of-100.html In theory one would just need to drill out the hole to 4.75mm insert clinch nut...

You could, but putting 12mm ply beneath the plaster/cement board means that you can fix stuff to the wall anywhere without having to worry about where the studs are. This is especially true if you wish to add something at a later date such as a grab rail for example.

If you are willing to take the plasterboard off, how about screwing sheets of plywood over the wall to strength it and allow fixings to the wall in any position, before covering with plaster/cement board as appropriate.

I would sincerely hope that a suspended timber floor IS exposed to outside temperatures. If your underfloor void is not ventilated then you are going to have problems down the line. Typically heat loss through the floor is around 10 to 15% of the total, and insulating the floor will make a...

To be honest for 1mm I would just inject some wood glue. I would recommend this stuff as it foams up a bit to make sure the gap is fully filled and no movement is possible. http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p78519

That is not strictly true. While the majority of Cat6 and above does have the cross piece there are engineered Cat6 cables that don't. More common in stranded for patch leads but also available in solid core. Took me by surprise when I first came across it but that was nine years ago. [/i]

Look anyone who thinks that air permeability through mineral wool insulating a floor over a ventilated void is a significant mechanism of heat loss from a house is on the crack pipe. If you really do think it is significant then put some floor lining paper down before you lay your carpet. I...

On the other hand you could er use a roll of insulation for a lot less money than bats. That is what I used on my floor. There is no way I was going to lift the floor boards (note added expense of replacing busted ones and replacement screws and nails) and while there was a good crawl space...

That is not what I said and your understanding of the laws of thermodynamics really is lacking. What happens when it is windy is not that air is pulled through the insulation (that idea is frankly ludicrous) but that the air next to the insulation is continually being replaced with new cold air...