Search results

Bell Wire is sufficient upto 20m on most 10K sensors upto about 50m on PT1000 series.

Poor excuse,, he obviously didn't get the lines sorted,, get your central line and work from that, then the cuts should be pretty much even on each side, the only time you would deviate from that rule is if you are going to have tiny slithers of tile on each end. That is basic tiling for you.

Using a primer will help and maybe a flexible adhesive, I would recommend the bag mix version compared to the potted versions, in my opinion the potted mastic version are just not as good. It is also my opinion that the flexible adhesive has better bonding capabilities than that of standard...

The screed takes 1 day per 1mm to dry approx. I would say not to lay anything on a new screed for about 6 weeks I would recommend treating a new screed with a primer acrylic bond or similar (NOT PVA) The tile adhesive should be a flexible tile adhesive, I prefer the powder form 1 Part Flex 20KG...

How long was the screed down before the floor was put on top ? did the tiler use a flexible tile adhesive? Were the tiles buttered up or full spread? I am assuming the underfloor heating is encased in the screed and if that is the case it should be safe to remove carefully, prepare the area...

They usually do either on the PCB or printed on the very back where the wires go in

Looks similar to the CO9 H3 thermostat controller but I am not sure there is any UK vendors of that particular model. it was probably a direct from china purchase

Ribbon underfloor heating 2mm thick, use a 10mm insulation board underneath, if the walls are insulated it will keep you nice and toasty all year around. been doing it for 14 years, the rules don't allow advertising so you can just google it. It is different than all other forms of heating, and...

You could have glued something like this to the back I.e a big blob of gripfill it would never move then,, Ah well you have done it now so too late

A 2mm hole would not be noticeable, only needs to be big enough to let water out,, IP44 is protected against dust greater than 1mm and water ingress from water spray so should only get water in it when it settles on the housing.

Go for an engineered wood floor, lay it on top of your exisiting floor,, saves a lot of messing about,, a good engineered herringbone is about £30+ m2 + £3 m2 for good underlay and maybe some self level to go over parts of your existing floor where it is uneven. It will save you a fortune if...

That totally depends on the install method, the risk and who installed it ?? the standard is set to more high end alarm systems and not so much off the shelf products

When there is a bad connection on an inductive load it is common for the neutral to raise in temperature and burn, I have found this most common on immersion heaters and electric floor heating where the terminations were poor. I am not going to get into the BS of what rating your socket is as...

IP44 is the norm for most external lights,, it is expected the water runs out of the bottom I suppose. You would not expect jets of water as such so although it would be good to have IP65 it is not warranted in this case. I think there is a webstore that caters for IP65 lighting though but...

I am assuming it is a burglar alarm and not a safety alarm (Fire / CO) so not required. I would say it would be a nuisance if the RCD trips though as most alarms have battery backup and sounds on loss of power.

I would definitely suggest taking gripper rods up and replacing, if you don't the carpet is cut to measure now, believe it or not by raising it 3.2mm it will not fit back down or bed correctly on the grippers. If you are raising part you are going to have to raise all to keep the dimensions...

UL 1097 standard for double insulated products and the standard in which it bares the markings of double insulated. The wire is tested and UL, IL, CSA certified. But that wire is mine not the one in the light :P

You cannot just slam in a big cable and hope for the best,, As said the electrician should work out the size needed based on distance and a number of other factors such as continuous amps, wire type copper/aluminium, There are a number of online calculators but to be honest they are not that...

The Wire shown is tested under IEC 60331 for heat resistance and combustion also tested to conform with UL 1097, This is a major requirement for underfloor heating cold leads. But it is good that people show concern through not knowing :D

What the photograph or the wires on the light??, I cannot find anyone say the wires on the light were not double insulated