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Thank you, can I ask, how do those masonry paints compare to oil based masonry brands I’ve been advised to use like tikkurila valtti or even dulux/sandtex I especially concerned about durability as we live in Shetland which is extremely exposed and the life of outdoor masonry paints tend to be...

Anyone got any advice here? Desperate for help

I am a novice when it comes to renders/exterior masonry work but I’m forced to fix things myself on this occasion! So any help appreciated It’s an old stone building with what I think is originally a lime/pebble render, with many layers of paint (both water based and oil) I’ve had to dig out...

thanks, but not much help haha. i could actually blame my wife, as i sent her to get a tub of tile adhesive and she came home with that, but doesnt help me much just now, was hoping to get most of the tiling done today, and so far i have 2 tiles up which im waiting to see how they stick...

Hi, im no expert but ive tiled a few times before without problems. the tiles i have are natural slate of varying thickness, but sharp cut edges, and i bought a large tub of 'sealocrete fix & grout tile adhesive and grout' I set about starting today, and when i opened the tub it was kinda...

thats it yeah thanks, and no need to appologise, the reason i asked was for your opinions, and you gave good advice, especially given i didnt give good details of the chemicals etc, still not 100% how safe it is, but yes 2 of lumber yards we have here seem to have only the treated ones, the one...

Ok sorry for the confusion regarding the type of boards, by old style i simply mean the old size.. they are brand new floorboards from the lumber yard. i went back and asked for more details about the treatment, as i already did this but got no helpful details or specifics last time, this...

i Have an old rayburn in my house, its white with black parts and black top, but in bad shape with stains, a failed paint touch up and chips in several places. we have used it a couple of times, but really just as a secondary wood burner heater on rare occasions, its really more of a kitchen...

As i am not a professional joiner and dont have some of the tools i thought needed like a biscuit jointer etc, i was keen to use these tongue and groove planks, and also as they are the perfect dimensions and wouldnt take much finishing, so i think scaffolding boards might not be as easy for me...

im just surprised that they sell floorboards which can be so toxic, id say theres more chance of a child or pet being contaminated playing/eating on the floor than a peice of food being contaminated on the worktop especially with a coating of oil or varnish... they dont appear to have...

Sorry Ladylola, can you clarify, i got from your post that firstly you wouldnt use it, but then that you have wooden tables and 'treen ware' that you do use without problems, so im a bit confused if your saying go for it or not :) I personaly cant see an issue, if the woods got a good coating...

i think they have some kind of wood worm treatment and fire protection treatment, they didnt give me any kind of official name of the type of treatment, all i know it has given the wood a very yellow colour, but this seems to lift away with a bit of a sanding when i tried out on a scrap.

Great thanks guys, this is quite encouraging, regarding the treatement being a potential problem, if it has been sanded, stained then well oiled, will this not give it a pretty good protective layer from any remaining chemicle in the wood? id hope we wont be placing any food directly on the...

Thanks for your reply, luckily i have no cutouts, as the sink is in a skullery porch area, so basically i have 4 parts, one part is 1250mm, the next part is 1660, and the last 2 are 670mm + 1170mm and meet butting up making a corner. i like your idea of the plywood, i was thinking of...

I am trying to do a very tight budget kitchen revival, and i want to replace the awful chipboard laminated worktops with something nicer for a cheap price, now heres my idea.... I found old style treated floorboards which come in 4.2m lengths, they are tongue and groove, and 140x30mm, so a...

can you elabarate slightly? where we have plasterboarded we have had to cut holes, and they are not exact diameter as this would have been near impossible to get right, so we have, for example - the sink pipes coming though holes with an extra 5mm diameter, i thought there would be fittings...

well the pipes have to come out somewhere to connect to the bathroom furniture, if you get me. for example below our wall hung sink, i have a chrome waste and a white plastic hot, and white plastic cold water pipe come out the wall to connect to the sink, how is this usually done in a way...

dont have the left over holes no.. not keen on trying to fill the holes atall really. i think my two options from all your advice are buy lights the same as the bathroom ones, or perhaps that tilt fitting? as do they not allow for a few mm exra in your hole size (idiot proofing) and yes i know...

simple question, with perhaps obvious answer, but i just dont know! where plastic plumbing pipes come through the plasterboard, what is the usual way of making it look nice? are there some kind of collars which fit around or what?

Silly mistake - i could shoot myself! ordered downlights, got specific shower ones, and bathroom ones, then some regular ones for the lobby. i wasnt paying attention when i checked the sizes and cut big 78mm holes in the lobby roof for the downights, which is the size of the bathroom...