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Wow that looks very cool! Yes please!

I've not been able to do this reliably before, with solid core. It seems to not be the done thing anyway, or at the very least controversial: https://ipcamtalk.com/threads/have-you-been-successfully-terminating-solid-core-cat5-6-with-rj45.38583/

Ohh I see. So I could cut that insert so the cable goes in sideways? I assume that would be weather proof enough once compressed within the gland?

Agree - but it's a 25 meter run that I'll be doing (installer is doing the electrical work, obviously), which necessitates solid core CAT5. And I despise terminating solid core directly to plugs - I've managed to do it with a couple of PoE connections to video doorbells, but it took me several...

Thanks - just to confirm, the dimensions I'm looking at here are the "cable diameter min/max", being 4mm/13mm respectively? So the 12mm plug will go through the hole ok, and the gland will close down to the 4.8mm of the cable?

I'm having a EV charger installed, and it optionally can use ethernet. The manual has this to say about it: The diameter of that cutout is about 20mm - but I can't find a gland that would both be able to fit an RJ45 plug, which is 12.2mm (even without clip), while also being narrow enough for...

I could do - the electrician I've asked to do it said it was fine technically speaking. (in terms of regs etc). He was just used to installing his own post.

No there's no wall just fences either side and a fence at the end of a 20 metre garden.

Thanks. Not sure what counts as "exposed", but it's on a driveway about 6 meters from a house opposite, in a sub-urban area. The post the installer is suggesting is wooden itself, are you saying we shouldn't go with that either?

I've had an electrician round to quote for installing https://www.eocharging.com/support/home-charging/eo-mini-pro-3. He's keen on installing his own post, but I'd rather, if possible, use one of the metal posts of the chain link fence we have. The posts are extremely solid, and are L-shaped...

The kitchen was installed before I bought the place. Given where the isolator (if that’s the right word?) is opposite side to the hob I’d say 10 to 11 metres.

One poster was suggesting it was about the right to access a sealed fuse rather than about competence. I’m just a layman trying to figure out who’s right, hoping that will help me establish which electrician to part my cash with.

Finchley Central

I guess I'll just have to get an electrician in - I'm just nervous about what @ericmark said about DNO's required checks: So I fear I might pay someone £120 p/h, not agreeing to a fixed price/time, and then them telling me either they can't do the tests required (as @ericmark says), or that...

But you're saying the DNO can legally leave me in a situation where Ze is 0.8Ω, and therefore mean I can't practically/within safety limits have an induction hob, unless I move my kitchen or CU? That seems mad to me.

I'm trying to reconcile different responses here. Your curt answers are at odds with the more helpful responses. One person is saying contact the DNO. Another is saying that the required resistance may not even be achievable except with a short cable - meaning kitchens with hobs have to be very...

In which case I'm not sure where that leaves me - are the installers wrong to not install? Or do 32A hobs just have to be really close to the CU?

I was going by another response suggesting I just contact the DNO. The hob installer said only 0.87Ω would be acceptable at the hob connection - so if you're saying 0.8Ω would be ok for Ze, is just 0.07Ω realistically achievable for the connection from CU to hob?

I called UKPN - went as well as I expected. They just redirected me to the form I already told them I'd seen. Computer says no.

I'm smiling thinking how it would go if I called UKPN and tried to argue with them :) Not sure I have much choice? It's so annoying a broken hob as led down this expensive rabbit hole! But I guess if it's a safety issue, better to be poorer than dead.