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just make sure you brush any crap off the walls too, use a sweeping brush. any exterior paint will do it just buy a decent brand , as for the floor sweep it clean it and apply 2 coats of a floor paint. thin the 1st coat down and use the 2nd neat

can`t see you getting off tbh. the wood effect is a vinyl wrap i think. even soaking it with hot water might not work. but maybe worth a try

sorry mate, oil based under coat. this will stick to the eggshell and then the emulsion will stick fine to the undercoat.

you`ve got to charge more. if you worked for a painting company on the books you`d get more and then it would go up again after you`ve done 8hrs

you could try mixing it with undercoat say 40% gloss 60% undercoat. or buy eggshell/satin wood.

go for the oil base, the zinseer is pretty good but exspensive. as for the plastering you do the walls 1st and then the ceilings so your not scraping any plaster splashes off walls/boards before you start. if you see what i mean. but to honest the pva marks are a massive pain in the backside...

the only trouble with supermatt or any other contract paint is it will get dirty very quickly. you`ll not be able to wipe it down . just use a vinyl matt . thin the 1st coat as you said but the 2nd won`t need as much and if its covered ok and solid you don`t need a 3rd. but if it looks patchy...

the best paint for outside is Pliolite . dry in 20 mins too so if its going to rain its fine. or just a good branded water based exterior masonary paint will do.

i don`t think it would stick mate, just shell off. undercoat it 1st and the emulsion will stick ok to it

try zinseer bullseye. it`ll seal it in and stop it bleeding back through. or a really good clean down and oil based undercoat

don`t really know which one your on about but , like said, if any of these things were any good then every decorator in the land would be using them. a good roller sleeve, arm and brush will save you time and money in the long term. plus a better finish.

you could try use a guide. something with a straight edge. like a metal caulker. just push it in the edge and paint it then wipe the metal edge and repeat. don`t know how good it will look but its worth a try i suppose.

you`ll need to go to a decorating centre, dulux etc. it`ll be exspensive though and you`ll have to order it in. don`t know how long it will take.

never heard that one before. if your getting brush marks its because the varnish is too thick. on bare wood it wants thinning down with turps, if its oil based , or water if its water based. a lot of times now i use an oil based varnish to seal the wood , thinned down, and then i use bri-wax...

if it says to use ready mixed then you may struggle if you don`t. you can pick up a tub at trade shops pretty reasonably .

its a standard size, if you go to b&q you should be able to take a "sample" home. you know a bit of a broken one. you`ll only need 6" or so. cut the edge at a 45 deg angle for external cut. you normally get instructions in the box or on the side. when you have this you then need to cut it to...

the article is pretty interesting. i think everyone used a paint where the water and paint have seperated in the tin and water stinks but a good stir and it goes on alright. the smell is normally just the water being stagnant and it will go away after a day or 2 but they said in the link this...

bit of a toughy without knowing exactly whats on the walls. you could thin down some oil based undercoat and give it a coat if its oil satin (eggshell) if its just silk than a really good rub down to get a key and use a good heavy duty ready mixed wall paper paste.

for every 100 painters you ask , you`ll get 50 that use undercoat and 50 that give it 2 coats of eggshell. its the age old question. personally i`d give it 2 coats of eggshell. i believe it gives a better finish, and it is self undercoating. every painter in the world knows that lol. but...

you could just cut through the paper with a stanley knife and do the same thing with the caulk if your going to paint the room any way. good luck with selling the house