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Thanks Tony. Appreciate soldered is best. I'll probably get both a solder and compression fitting. If the dribbles stop I can solder but if I've waited ages and it keeps going I'll have to get the compression fitting on despite the tight spanner access.

I have to alter a pipe to utility room sink hot supply that comes up from under the concrete floor of a 1950s extension. The old pipe measures 21.45mm so I assume to be old 3/4"? I need to connect in a very tight hole I've made in the concrete floor and know it will be really hard to stop the...

I did a job like this at home the other month. I was really worried that the old pipe in the floor might crack lower down so I cut the toilet off at the u-bend then with more room disc-cut the collar to floor level (with rag in the pipe). Also helps as many new toilets will not have room for the...

>>>Or tree fonds as used on the roof of your hut? Ahh you're embracing Fenland ways already :lol:

Thanks for the reminder... I've already two existing extractors through slate vents and the ducts to these are wrapped in loft insulation tied on.

OK understood thanks.

OK he can take that option if it's allowable. Not too worried by a switch showing in the ceiling though as the cubicle already has a gas boiler and associated switches/controls.

An inline fan in the loft. I'm going to fit all the ducting/grilles so the guy can just wire it in.

>>>Or just have a plasterboard back-box on the ceiling and a regular fan isolation switch - you don't really need a cord dangling down for it Excellent, that'll be even neater. Thanks for the guidance.

Thanks, that diagram explains it. I get him to put the light switch in the wall as that's just one cable and I'd like the 3-pole switch to isolate the fan to be a ceiling pull type so all the wire/conns will be in the loft... but I can't find that they make them. Will the electrician be able to...

Ahh sorry what I meant was leaving noggins out or leaving cutouts in them when I'm doing the stud wall so making sure he has a route free of obstructions to pull the cables through if there need to be wall switches. I wasn't going to fit the cables. If the switches could be ceiling mounted then...

OK I've looked and the 500mm one seems ideal... shame the two end caps double the price :x What I can't quite understand is how you'd fit the rad valves as there are just 22mm copper tails from the rad??

That's a good idea because that width taken up at low level is fine... haven't ever seen one fitted in a house but I'll look about the net and see who does them and get their heat info. Thanks.

I have a cloakroom, (1.3m deep, 0.8m wide, 2.3m tall) and the heat calcs give a need of about 550BTU. It also has the boiler in this cloakroom wall mounted and I understand I may get about half of that heat radiated from the boiler. So all I need in the way of heat input is about 250BTU. Even...

Recently had a good electrician do some extra sockets, lights and a new consumer unit in our old house so everything is up to standard. Can't get hold of the guy for a couple of weeks and need to make provision for cabling in some stud walling I'm doing so it's ready for him. I need to know...

An update that might help someone in the future.... sorry it's long but the detail needs explaining.... Bathstore supplied replacement cistern bolts (exactly the same type as old ones) and these leaked too. I went to town and bought the type of bolt set that seals the cistern first (as...

Yes quite... the wc I'm replacing is a high level cistern type with flush pipe and at 55yrs old it wasn't leaking!

Actually they have tried with these nylon bolts (despite the fact they leak :roll: ) as the first part of the bolt under the head where the conical washer is has been left plain not threaded. So in theory the more you pull them down the tighter the cone should be squashed between shaft, head...

Thanks Kirkgas but the cistern is free to settle/tighten as it wants just a few mm away from the wall. Here is the toilet... This is the bottom of the cistern with the supplied bolts... And here is the pan where the cistern fits... note the very shallow space available for any...

That's an interesting idea because as I said when I'd tested the cistern off the pan with the bolts temp clamped as in your method there was no leak... it's just when it is asked to clamp the whole cistern/pan sandwich it leaks. Are these bolt/seal sets sold in plumbers merchants and are any...