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So I stupidly nicked the 2.5mm twin and earth going to a plug socket when fitting new skirting board It wasn't enough to go bang and trip the electrics and the plug still works but needs to be repaired. Luckily I have enough slack where I can get a way with just cutting and joining again...

So I checked the wiring in the switch and it was all secure. I went into the loft and moved the wires about going to each light and they didn't flicker at all so don't think it's the connections in the lights. Could the actual contacts in the switch be failing and be the cause?

That make sense. I'll check the wires in the light switch are make sure there all secure. Hopefully it's as simple as that and I don't have to and pull down all the lights and check the connections one buy one

So don't connect the 1.5mm twin and earth wire directly to the down light terminals but instead run that to a connection block and standard flexi wire from the connection block to the light? What guage flexi should I be using, 1.5mm again or slightly beefier? Is there a flexi wire you can buy...

No, but I think the GU10 bulbs I got were dimmerable bulbs if that makes a difference?

Thanks, least I don't have to go into the loft again in that case

So I replace an old light in an upstairs room with 3 led down lights, these lights use push connectors rather than screw terminal and have 2 sets of connectors for In and Out to allow for easy daisy chaining. I used those spring lever connectors to connect the wires from the last light in the...

I was under the impression all downlights should have a cover if you want to lay insulation over them!?

Yeah as I said I had them on for an hour and the shell/case of the lights were barely warm, which i guess it expected seeing's as the majority of the heat will be generated from the LED itself which is facing downwards away from the rear of the light that would be in contact with the insulation...

Well yes but then that falls into the same price bracket as the 'proper' downlight cover....which themselves are plastic

So have just fitted some led downlights in an upstairs room, I think I'm right in saying that with downlights fitted upstairs you don't need to be concerned about fire rated covers to go over the lights to insulated them against fire but you also shouldn't cover downlights with insulation in the...

Hang on, thats wrapping it CW based off that picture then no? As you wrapping it away from your body not towards??. Imagine turning the tail so the thread is now facing you you'd go around with tape CW

This is actually a good point and something I never considered. So the tail will screw into the rad clockwise right as the thread is on the tail itself, so do I need to apply the tape to the tail counter-clockwise or clockwise?

Surely when I remove the tail from the rad water will start pouring out?, or with a combi is there enough presure to cause a vacuum so not much water escapes, so I have time to remove the old PTFE tap and applied new before I'm drowning in water??

Yeah, to be fair I think I only wrapped the tape around 5 times. I've looked at the ice cream carton this morning and there's a very small amount of water in there maybe 5 drops or so. I can still see tape on the exposed threads so maybe I'll get away with tightening it up a tad more just don't...

Yeah the new tail uses a spanner fitting to tighten. Hopefully I can losen off nut and the air lock inside the rad will stop hardly any water coming out and then I can tighten the tail up more. I guess If I do need to remove the tail completely theres no way getting around having to drain the...

Hmmm I can still see 2-3 rows of thread so maybe I haven't tightened it enough, it was getting tight so didn't want to over tighten and strip the thread (is that even possible on a rad?). Should I undo the nut on the thermostat slightly or is it ok to just tighten the tail without loosening the...

Thanks. Removed the old tail and inserted the new one. Even though I applied some PTFE tap I'm getting a bead of water form on the tail every every 1 minute or so. How tight should you tighten the tail into the rad and is it ok to tighten the tail with the rad back on thr wall and new thermostat...

The thread on the tail that is currently install on the rad looks larger than the new supplied tail?? What's the best way to remove the old tail from the rad, I bet its a bitch to get off?

So I just bought a new thermostat for a rad in my house upon trying to fit the new thermostat the connection nut on the actual rad is too large for this new thermostat. The pipe coming up from the floor is 1/2 in but the connection on thr rad is 3/4". Have looked on screw fix sbd they don't seem...