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Hi Jackrae. Many thanks for giving us that link.

Hi all and especially Angie17 Details from my old A1 alarm book. A1 Security & Electrical Ltd, 16 Brickfields, Huyton, Merseyside, L36 6HY Installation help line 01514 890 166 General 01514 804 455. Also in the book is this number as a possible source of help. 0208 908 6583, but I don't know...

Hi Angie17 I'll get the book out in the morning and come back to you with all the contact info in it. Meantime, do look at all replies in this thread for other sources of help. Hang on in there H.

Dear all Thank you to all who helped me by sending links. Unfortunately, one of them contained a document that contained malware. The doc id is: a1_omnicron_7000_user_manual.exe It contained software that tried to modify my browser and was difficult to remove. The usual deleting options...

Thanks for that info. Now I can ask Omnicron if they have a manual. By the way, what does the RF mean? H

Thanks Sparkymarka. Pics are attached. H

That's great Flameport. That seems to be the answer. Thank you very much H

Thanks for the info. I've contacted Omnicron to ask if they have manuals. H

I don't think it is an Omnicron. When I installed it, the manual had a contact phone number for technical help at A1 Alarms Ltd. I phoned them a couple of times, then the number became unobtainable and i read on-line that they had gone out of business. Could Omnicron have taken them over?

Looking at how clean the hole is around the top mounting point, it could be a cavity wall. If so, you'll need cavity wall fixings. Ordinary rawlplugs will never do.

The cold taps on my bath and wash basin are both dripping. (They've not been fixed because I plan to renovate the bathroom). Where the water drips into the basin, the basin is unmarked, but where it drips into the bath, it is leaving a very slight pinkish residue. Also, there is a shower...

Does anyone have the manual for the A1 house alarm? Mine is working OK but without the manual I can't get into programming mode or do any fault finding. Thank you H

Hi Invisible man If you are still there, is there any chance of a copy of your A1 Alarm manual you mentioned in a previous post? Thank you H

Boilerman2 was right. It was the circuit board. We did all the checks recommended and narrowed it down to the boiler PCB. If anyone else is in the same position, I would shop around as I found prices varied from £135 up to £150 although a trade price is probably lower. My thanks to all...

Are they definitely chipboard? Chipboard falls apart if it gets wet. Do you have any damp in the loft? Have you ever noticed a smell like mushrooms when you first enter the loft? Has water ever dripped onto the boards? Is the loft well ventilated?

Doubt if it was stuck fully open or engine would never reach max operating temp. Probably tired/sticky not fully closing when cold.

Assuming your mains is 110 volts, then If it were to draw 5 amps of current continuously for 1 hour, then it would consume 550 watts or just over 1/2 KwH. (Half of one kilowatt hour). However, the motor will not be running continuously, so actual consumption will be less. There are some very...

The voltages measured at the terminals on the boiler circuit board are these. With heating on and boiler alight: Switched live 243v Permanent live 243v pump live 243v. With room thermostat turned down so that boiler goes off: Switched live 210v permanent live 243v pump live 243v...

My boiler has just started to make strange noises as it switches off. The boiler generally works fine, but when it switches off, a noise comes from the control box that sounds like a relay switching on and off very fast. This always starts at the end of the 6 minute pump over-run period...

Thank God for this forum and Denford1. It was the battery. I've just fitted a new one and all is well. I should have known better than to expect a lead-acid battery to perform for 20 years. (I'm lucky to get 4 winters from my car battery). My sincere thanks to you and all at Diynot.