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actually I have no idea..

Thick pane, airgap, thin pane with a laminate layer is what we ended up choosing. The panes are heavy, and how much better than regular double or triple is not something we can measure.

hi, we went with the Acoustic glass in the end. it has made a marked difference in road-noise in the house, and things are much more pleasant as a result. You do need to consider other noise paths, as once you've fixed the winows, you're then aware of the air-brick or some other route for the...

I have the difficult situation where my house is made from very hard local brick, combined with a pretty soft mortar (apparently made with stone dust). In my renovations I'm finding a good portion of the time when drilling into the brick (SDS with decent bosch bits) the vibrations of the hammer...

Spark isn't interested in drilling a hole, and has offered a price for the job in the expectation the site is ready for a cable to be pulled and terminated with no messing around.

I need to get a power cabling route from a distribution board in a new extension to a shed and garage outside. I don't want cabling or ducting visible outside. The issue I have is the builder has put drainage services on both sides of the wall. (see sketch below) - the screed and insulation...

it won't hurt. the more still air you can put between inside and outside the better.

Hi all, I'm looking to fit a couple of sets of door restrictors, or check straps - to some UPVC Double glazed french doors. Is it a case of one size fits most? or do I need something specific to fit a particular supplier? One set of doors is a fairly recent install with rehau extrusions, the...

nope- I'll leave them in place to support the ceiling and loft floor. Due to the nature of the different roof structures the ceiling joists are at slightly different level between existing house and extension, so side access should be possible.

I'm in the process of breaking through the first floor into my extension, through the existing gable wall. One window will be blocked up, the othe will become a doorway, and I'll be putting another opening fairly close, just off centre. See sketch below.. I'm contemplating extending the...

Roof is raised tie design, with big purlins running front to back, and relatively thin (3") ceiling joists running across - the wall in question barely touches them.

Above is a crayon'd plan of my house (1930's brick, gable roof) before extension work started. I'm kinda curious about the function of the wall highlighted red joining the chimney stack to the rear gable wall. All of the first floor walls, except this one, are fibreboard over timber. This is...

I've got a poured concrete subfloor in my extension which has a height variation of 20mm over a distance of 3m in some spots. there's a layer of PIR insulation to go down before UFH pipes and screed. It's about 27sqm area all in, so that makes for 0.25 to 0.5 cubic metres to fill (depending on...

Found this whilst excavating for another reason. Not sure if it was my digging that did it or not. It's fairly well embedded, and there's little wiggle room. It's carrying kitchen and utility waste, so not high volumes like from a WC. Replacing it will be a chore. Is it likely to cause issues in...

oh well that's embarrasing - I'd checked a few radiators on the stelrad website and there wasn't any mention, so assumed (wrongly) that it would be the same for their distributors.. As you were, and many thanks.. :)

If I know the physical dimensions of a bunch of steel panel radiators (cheap, of unknown origin) , is there a basic rule of thumb I can use to work out the approximate volume of the system (I'll take some rough measurements of pipe lengths and sizes).. ? So far I've seen 6l/kW and 11l/kW from...

There was a blocked rainwater gulley on other side of the wall, which I think added to the pressure under the slab. since the gulley has been cleared the area hasn't flooded and the inside is dry as a bone. The water was pooling slightly deeper in a low spot towards the centre of the room...

Hi all, Can anyone recommend a product that I can use to repair/seal the DPM under a concrete slab where the drains and some electrical duct pass through it? I know there's a weakness in a particular location as we had some localised flooding outisde due to heavy rain which then appeared...

In fairness, the bricks are pretty tough, I've killed a few decent smaller SDS bits in this house already. I'd rather kill a cheap core drill than an expensive one.

This is the kit I'm using: Screwfix/Erbauer core drill kit I wouldn't entertain using the pilot drill for much, given it's only a taper fit. I'm drilling into underfloor cavities, so tidyness isn't an issue, though previous holes have turned out quite neat, I assume its a feature of these...