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Built into the quote as an added charge and no option to opt out. Here's the blurb from Heatgeek. As you say it is rather off-putting even if the overall charge they propose for all of the work (where it looks like these companies assume they might need to convert to sealed and add cylinder)...

Thanks! The angle lines around the window reveals I was quite pleased with. I think our plasterer quoted me £1600 to board the whole room and skim (me supplying boards) which on reflection was quite good value as this did take a long time- photo only shows half the room and there's another velux...

I guess taping and jointing isn't that commonly used over here so just thought I'd update as might be a useful reference for anyone considering similar. I proceeded as above and used the reinforced tape for all of the corners. This required embedding in the jointing compound, then skimming over...

Definitely agree with you there. Some of the indicative quotes I've received are outrageous. One (from Heatgeek) included a £2000 charge to guarantee their work and a promise that they would come back if the installed equipment was not operating as expected. Call me old school but I'd expect...

We had a similar set up (i.e. gravity fed) and swapped over to an unvented cylinder. Existing HW cylinder moved from airing cupboard to loft, and a few extra bits added such as magnetic filter. 200l tank has been fine for us. 2 adults and 2 kids. We have very good mains pressure and shower...

Thanks- I was thinking something like that but can't picture it looking quite right bearing in mind it is against quite a low height section of board

Hi all, I need to install some skirting in a loft room and as you can see from the photos I have a couple of sections where the edges of the wall already have raised wooden box sections. What are peoples thoughts in terms of how to best finish this? I was thinking of perhaps getting some...

You should definitely be noticing the difference with acoustic glass. We had it installed in one of our previous houses and found it effective. Looking back at old quotes the laminate layer was 6.8 with 4mm inside. I'm sure there was some science behind having the inner and outer panes different...

Not quite sure what you mean by control unit but we have the TP Link Kasa ones. The starter kit has the hub that you need which is just a small plug in device- then you can set up and control all of them individually and set schedules.

It's the google doorbell that we'd be installing. Can I not use the existing outdoor light supply, split this so it still supplies an outdoor light, with a second cable going into an appropriate transformer (which I presume I need to site so I can access it?) and then this supplies the doorbell?

Thanks. I have considered the battery powered ones but hardwired would definitely be our preferred option. The current floodlight is a smart floodlight camera. We'd now just rather have a doorbell camera. I was wondering if there was some way of using this wiring. We would still want some form...

Hi all, We'd like to install a smart doorbell (the google one) but I'm just trying to get my head around how this would be connected up- we'd want the wired one. I've attached a picture of the frontage of our house. The consumer unit is in the garage. There is obviously power supply to the...

Ventilation is key. We have two upstairs showers- one with no extractor fan, and one with a DMEV fan right above the cubicle. The one without gets minimal use but whenever we do use it in the winter, we get a fair bit of moisture on the ceiling even if we have the window open. The one with the...

Hi all, I've almost finished boarding out an attic room (using insulated plasterboard; just a few bits left such as the velux reveals and boarding the ceiling) so next step will be the finishing. The plasterboard is tape and joint/tapered edge and I have a variety of different anges where the...

I had a QX one which bowed as well. Caused me some problems trying to install a frameless shower enclosure as the side panel wouldn't sit right, albeit I was told by the bathroom shop that I'd be lucky to find one that was flat. Seems from my experience to be par for the course....

I've used fugalite bio- not like silicone at all. I'd say similar to traditional grout. I had no real issues using it. Just buy a lot of cellulose sponges- toolstation do some good cheap ones. This is effective as well, to use the day after to clean up any bits that you might miss...

Just to update- manage to sort this today, following everyones advice. All of the old 2 core and earth wiring removed, and I ran the 3 core and earth from the ceiling light (it was indeed already running from the light fitting), across to the isolator switch, and then onwards to the fan...

Right- understood. thanks again for everyone’s help!

Would the ‘in’ cable to the isolator switch definitely come from the ceiling rose?

Taking on board all the above advice (or trying to), if I leave the permanent live wiring in place but then run switched live cabling from the ceiling rose, to isolator switch (it's a three pole one, with LI and L2 in and out), then run triple and earth to the fan?