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Hi everyone. I'm about to embark on a complete bathroom refit (very small bathroom approx. 3.2sqm) that will have a corner shower with full height tiling in 8mm porcelain tiles (approx 100mm across). The remainder of the room will be 9mm porcelain hexagon tiles (approx. 250mm across) up to a...

The problem is that a builder is lining out the walls for us whilst completing the rest of the extension. I will then be fitting the kitchen, including the rails. The issue is what will hold the insulated p/board to the walls until I come and put the rail up? I'm also concerned as to the...

I don't think you're understanding the proposed wall build-up tbh. So, Single skin brick wall Celotex fitted to inside face Battens placed on TOP of celotex and fixed through the celotex into the brick wall using long hammer frame fixings P/board fixed to battens Cabinet rails fixed...

John D, thanks. I was already planning to use the rails by Woodfit, but my concern is whether they will have enough to grip into with just the battens that are fixed through the insulation, or do I need to fix ply to the batten faces first to further spread the load?

Hi there, We have an existing single skin brick extension that houses our kitchen. Both the kitchen units and the roof are very tired and we are taking the opportunity to extend the extension when we replace the kitchen. Amazingly the existing walls have NO insulation (built in the 80s) and...

I should clarify that both options still clear the 200mm insulation. Option A uses 150x50mm timbers and Option B uses 100x50mm. Not technically true even if I was squashing down the rockwool. In existing buildings, amendments to the thermal fabric of the building only have the requirement that...

Thanks for your advice jabuzzard but I'm happy with the way I'm proposing to do it already. I was just looking for answers to the specific queries. The Celotex method would be circa £120 more than the method I'm proposing and time isn't really an issue as I have 3 guys and a whole weekend to do...

HI there, So, as part of the EDF free insulation scheme I've just had my loft insulation increased. The original was about 80mm laid between joists and the new stuff is 200mm laid perpendicularly over the joists (see attached photo). I know need to board out the centre section for storage...

Oldun, Your advice is very detailed and you seem like a font of knowledge, so..... I am insulating an existing single brick double garage to form a workshop, by building a partition half way along the length of the garage and dry-lining the existing walls. the plan is to use a breather...

I am building a low-level ply unit to house all the detritus of my kitchen. Whilst the top will not be used for food preparation it will have some appliances placed on it and I need it to be wipeable. The ply I have is birch-faced and I don't want a gloss finish to it. Can anyone suggest...

A photo of the end of the board, i.e. the profile would b very useful. It''s not a standard skirting profile unfortunately. A quick look found this which is very similar but the top flat surface is shorter than yours.

The flat is rented and so it would come with us or sold to our landlord if/when we move. The query was really whether, if I'm already using screws and battens, glued joints will be required.

Good quality ply already has a good finish in my experience. There will actually not be much worktop use of this. The idea is that it will hold all of the clutter and machines that currently crowd the island worktop. The top will be birch faced ply with a matte varnish finish. My...

Big-all, I'm proposing NOT to mix materials. These are ply units. Ply does not necessarily need to be lipped, see below. This is the kind of finish I'm looking for. Not sure what you mean here. I live in a 6 year old flat which is all about clean lines and simple finishes...