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So I have a wee a conundrum on a bit of patio I'm hoping to finish tomorrow. I've laid an area of patio using 600*600 ~20-25mm riven slate slabs on a ~50-70mm full wet mortar bed above 75-100mm compacted type 1. Most of it has been done and is now well set. I just have to lay the last section...

The paving expert section on sub bases suggests that for light for traffic a sub base is not always required, depending on the depth of top soil of and type of sub soil. Where we are the sub soil is near solid packed red sandstone/clay soil. It compacts as firm as type 1 so if your sub soil is...

Thanks for the reminder. When it was originally planned I expected that section to all be below ground but I ended up digging away a fair bit of accumulated soil to get to the bottom of the old roughcast before the rendering team came in. I intended to replace with a black equivalent but tbh I...

Well overdue but realised I didn't ever put up a picture of the finished pipework job, this was actually taken last summer when the grass was still recovering from the rendering work (looked like the Somme for a few months). Once again thanks to the helpful members here for their advice, the...

I'm thinking it's unlikely you still have the leftover resiply after a few months, but if you do and are still selling let me know. I'm not far off pointing mine and was looking at this product so could take some off your hands. Did you source the sand separately yourself?

The new flashing is fixed below the stop bead and goes into the old 25mm chase which I raked out, maybe just not that obvious in the pics. The L section of the flashing is 40mm deep so even though it's not flush to the wall it goes plenty deep. I agree that on reflection a bellcast bead would...

Not to worry, I'm not quite that daft, the ladders were just leaning against the wall when I took the pics. I had them the right way up when I was using them Got the flashing sorted this afternoon. Glad I went with the preformed aluminium apron in the end. Cost £22 plus post and arrived next...

So I've ordered the flashing and jammed a strip of rubber in there for now, hoping it'll keep the water out for a day or two. Is there any particular type of sealant I should use to seal the aluminium apron flashing into the chase?

A few years ago we got a small flat roof recovered. The company just seem to have cut a chase into the wall it adjoins and laid felt about 6" up it over the existing roughcast and into the chase to serve as flashing, then mortared around the edges to seal it. There's no proper lead flashing. We...

Great, your quick response is much appreciated.

Thanks! So I take it that covering over won't cause a problem? The cavities have been filled with those foam insulation balls so I doubt there's much airflow anyway.

On our small kitchen extension there are two vents. It is a cavity brick wall and there is nothing either vent goes to on the inside. The bottom one (above internal floor level) had already been filled before we moved in and now we're getting it all rendered the guy asked if we wanted the top...

Could try a mould removal product, have used some on a wall and it took the marks away. Definitely recommend osmo top oil and use the osmo water protection stuff first.

This is something that I've kind of posted in the doors forum but it's probably more of a minor building type question now I've got stuck into it. Long story short, the slab for our kitchen floor has been thickened at some point for reasons I don't fully understand. This left a tall step right...

Cheers mate, all your advice was much appreciated and helped me get it done. Got most of the cast stuff off now. I'll put a pic up when it's all done and rendered.

Got cracking on this today and did all as planned except the connection into the salt glaze spigot. It was sitting at a really squint angle and I wasn't convinced the push in adapter or the boot would connect well allowing the pvc to go straight up. I had a wee bit of old salt glaze pipe kicking...

Thanks again Hugh. I think I'll just get the mcalpine one (or the flowplast equivalent as they probably stock it at wickes) as I suppose it should work with or without the spigot. I was a little concerned that it looks like it has a reduced internal diameter but I suppose on a vertical fall it...

Sorry to bother you again but I've dug down to the joint and found where the cast pipe is mortared in as suggested. I was hoping you could help clarify the process/fittings required to connect into what I think is a salt glaze pipe. The cast pipe seemed able to wiggle a bit at the joint and the...

I pulled the cladding away (the red painted wood being used as the stop) and found that most of the space behind it is actually covered by the door frame which is 5 3/4" deep so plenty there. I knew about the need for a threshold bar but hadn't thought about the rebate on the bottom of the door...