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yeap, plaster the effected area, it's 3 days for thick adhesive to go off, and you won't ever get it real flat.

yeap, re-plaster, tile on tile you'll have problems later.............

Cheers mate, I'll look out for the stuff.......................worms, where do I get off.................... :lol:

No problems Moz.......................... :o

Never heard of weetabix pre-mix, is it when you mix your breakkie up with worm milk!!! No, seriously, I've never heard of the stuff. I use Nicobond ( but their flexi powder gear is very takky) Howtex , but mainly Ardex,,,, blooming expensive............. Where do you buy that gear from???

funny little fecker ain't you moz. nothing wrong with tub gear, used it for years, not 1 problem, you sad little twit. :lol:

Spot on Jasonb......................... :D

Do a Google search for a tile company called Ctd. They sell a tub brand called Howtex Fermagrip for about £6 a 10kg tub. I use it all the time and I've put up 400x600 ceramic tiles. A word of warning though, use acrylic bonding agent, NOT pva on the walls. I won't go into why not to use pva...

Cast iron baths excluded................... :D You can put the mix of water and fairy liquid in one of those small flower spray bottles and soak the silicone, then use a forming tool, I use a lolli-pop stick, because I like lollies.................. :lol:

Go to Topps and get some Quad tile pieces. They would sit very nicely along that gap. You get an adhesive tube with some of them which is water proof.

I happen to be a good friend of Moz, and may I say what a nice( n0n- British............... :lol: ) bloke he is............................ :P Not only does he do tiling, he teach's it. Myself, i'm a pro-tiler in London............... 8)

How you doing Moz?????????????

The basic answer is no. You will have to make good any lose floor boards with screws, then fit 12mm ply over them, screwing down at every 6". This will give you a rigid and stable floor to tile on. Use flexible adhesive and grout.

I use fine shingle stones from my local builder centre. The level compound packet you have should have an advise telephone number on it.

You won't get that thickness of screed down, it will break up. There are many self level compounds on the market today which go to various levels. Most of the tile materials I use day in day out are Ardex. They make a form of self level screed which may be of use to you, and will go to that...

You have 100x200 brick slips. Tile one tile away from the socket. With a pencil, mark around the socket. Loosen the socket screws. from the last tile, place the tile to be cut next to it, not forgetting the grout width. If you are tiling from the left(I'm left handed) you will have to place the...

Make sure you've scrubbed them well the night before to get all old grease, oil, stains etc off the faces of the tiles to be tiled over.

Some people like very wide grout joints, but usually its about 5mm, recently the trend is 3mm fine grout lines, it all depends on the size of the tile, colour, what you want etc....... But as you have gone for 12mm make sure you use wide grout joint grout from a good tile shop, not b&q etc, a...

Bal has a mosaic power adhesive you mix with water, and is the same colour as it's own grout, but I'm not sure it stops sagging. I always use Howtex Fermagrip for most tiling jobs I do because it simply does not let tiles slip, not like some adhesives which state they are non-slip when they...

get yourself down to wickes, £50 quid sells you their wet cutter. I've been tiling for yonks and its better then any cutter out there. I once had a top rubi wet cutter, waste of dosh...............