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Thanks, I may be putting 10 of them in a HMO!

How much power do the use when not charging anything?

When installing them, what about using a deeper box, and wago connectors so the socket is on a very short spur that you can disconnect with ease while keeping the ring connected? (I am a HMO landlord, and the USB sockets are now being used a lot in HMO bedrooms!)

Just use a WAGO box and connectors! If there is ANY chance that a carpet will be fixed to the floor, then accessible would be hard to defend.

(I am thinking of using them with a radiator based system with lots of zones, so will not have the thermal mass of the floor to even out the response.) I know that there are 3 types, 240v, 12v (or 24v) and 0-10v proportional. Firstly I have seen that at least some actuators take 3 minutes to...

I have used the normal Speedfit pipe in the past, and found it hard to uncoil it. This project needs the pipe to be passed though lots of joists etc, so flexibility is important. I am happy with both the Speedfit and the Hep2o fittings. (Speedfit seems a little cheaper and is easier to get...

I need to run 4 showers, and only have a 25mm main, therefore a bank tank and pump is needed. The Grundfos Home Booster does not seem to have the flow rate I need, but I want a low noise level as the pump is going in a kitchen. "On Paper" the DAB E.Sybox along with the E.SYTANK looks like...

I am having to replace a separating “wall” that is a single layer of T&G boarding, so as to give 30 minutes fire protection. I also need to fit a door into the wall. There is very little space as the wall separates basement stairs from a very narrow corridor. The wall is not very...

They charge more to people doing DIY because they can. They may also get more returns from DIYers. Personally I always get more then what I need from them and return what I don’t use. Someone in the trade is more likely to keep spares in the van for the next job.

Don’t think of this as a SDS drill, it will just not be up to what you expect a SDS drill to do. However I expect it will be OK for drilling small holes in walls for putting up shelves etc. However do you already own drill bits, if so are there SDS? (I could be tempted just so I don’t...

We are talking about a basic set of 1 off diy project! Given the most diy shops and timber outlets will cut sheets to size for little or no costs, I don’t see the point of a table saw, plunge saw and rail etc. A folding bench, e.g. “Workmate” and a selection of clamps are well worth...

There are two saving graces on the flow rate. Firstly 10mm pipe is very bandy so no fittings are needed, and also the kitchen in my case is in the basement. However 10mm for a kitchen sink is marginal in a lot of cases, it is however good enough for a hand basin in a WC.

endecotp, Your calcs look correct, but it excludes heat lost from the copper pipe to the air round it. However I expect that is not important. But from my practical experience hot water takes longer to arrive at a tap then is explained by all the maths so far on this thread.

I read it to mean that I can have a system with a push button that runs the pump for 10 minutes before a shower that is taken a few times a day. But not a system that tried to keep the water hot all the time. So for my case, I would not risk it, as a PIR in the kitchen could have the pump...

This is what Speedfit says.... I think "Continuously" is the key word....

A secondary return is OK on plastic, provided the pump does not run for long at a time, and the loop is allowed to cold down for a lot of the day. It is when the secondary return runs for most of the time, often at 65 or more that there are problems, the chlorine in the water eats the plastic...

The 22mm (or 28mm) pipe from the DHW cylinder to the start of the 10mm is clearly of great importance and is also the hardest to insulate. (Just 1m of 28mm has more water in it then 10m of 10mm!) I think with copper pipe heat loses are important as the copper pipe itself must heat up taking...

This will require nearly double pipe work and lots of pumps for me, unless I put in a long 22mm (or 28mm) pipe run round the complete building, so everything can have short branches of it. Controlling the pump will not be easy as the kitchen is also going to be used as a dining room, so more...

Thanks James, That is what I did, but I used a wall thickness of 1.65mm that I got from a Hep20 technical handbook. When I plug your wall thickens in to my spread sheet I get about the same results as you. Do you know how to take account of the water loosing heat to the pipe? (It...

Please can someone check my maths, I work it out that 10m of 15mm plastic pipe holds about 1l of water and 10m of 10mm pipes holds about .3l of water. A sink tap gives a flow rate of about 6 l/m for both hot and cold. So with a 10m long 15mm pipe the wait will be 10 seconds, but with a...