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Or wet; suspended below the floorboards. http://thermoboard.wavin.com/master/master.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374305495207&middleTemplateName=oc_middle_service_sub

Presuming that this is for solar thermal, as in the plumbing section... A south facing gable is quite an advantage if you can use that for the panels, as you can orient them to more winter, less summer sun - in winter when you need more heat input, the sun is lower (closer to vertical...

Probably turn out to have been dripping from the one above onto it!

Does it actually matter? The vessel will allow the necessary expansion volume regardless of what is in the non-air side, and the 'dead leg' doesn't lead to a tap or anything. It's been argued that the benefit of mounting in such a way is to isolate (and thus protect) the internal membrane as far...

I think the second half of 1godd's post was implying you should check to see if the hot supply to the shower isn't the problem, rather than the shower valve itself. ie. leave it dismantled, turn HW back on, and see if anything comes through. If it's pumped; is the pump ok? If it's gravity...

And does it really matter? The internal installation is the concern of the other tenant, the only issues I would raise if I lived there are regarding the appearance, the hole, and the end / drain.

Or in the cylinder coil itself (assuming a HW cylinder is present) Any way of turning off entirely either HW or Rads circuit? If nothing else; remove all tmv tops (so closed) and close the valves the other side, just to eliminate any radiator as being a problem.

Try it first! Your favourite Wickes has the fittings listed too... http://www.wickes.co.uk/compression-tap-connector/invt/159999/ As I've just realised I have no idea how imperial threads are measured! But a quick google shows other taps to have similar hoses to what you described, which...

Oh. I get you - flex hose built in! Most likely one of these to convert piping to a suitable connector; http://www.screwfix.com/p/straight-tap-connector-15mm-x/58294 http://www.screwfix.com/p/female-coupler-15mm-x/93992 0.5 inches is about 12.7mm according to google...

Could this be a compression fitting? ie. Would it take a 10mm microbore pipe with an olive? A quick measure of a 10mm fitting I have shows the thread to be around the 13mm mark. Note that by 'quick', I used nothing more accurate than a tape measure! Postulating from this assumption; use the...

Could it not be easier to replace the actual valve, than try and get an adaptor? Obviously, I know nothing about the quality or type of valve you're trying to connect, but basic ones seem to start at a couple of quid, which is probably far less than any specialist adaptor would cost!

At the very least, could it not have made use of that drain at the bottom, rather than risk turning the planting into boiled cabbage...? And if indeed the installer hasn't 'made good' the brickwork; that issue should probably be raised. If only to prevent water ingress and associated problems.

I try to. :oops: and you can't just wire in a pump as if a 2-port valve? Bar the overrun mentioned (there'll probably be a requirement for a high efficiency control centre in another year anyway!) it's either circuit on or circuit off! edit; Actually; there is a wiring centre...

Who said three? You won't need the main pump; just one where each valve is now! Who said in the boiler? Once upon a time, pumps were a separate bit of equipment... :wink: Yes; lots of zoning is probably better with individual actuators, But a basic heating and/or hot water system...

I've no experience of buying in bulk, but they don't seem to be. Standard price for a typical pump seems to be a little more than a decent (danfoss / honeywell) valve; some pumps are cheaper still. Admittedly the very high efficiency pumps would be over £100 a set, but then you would probably be...

Aside from the obvious; "to divert..." In the UK; An s-plan is usually a pump, with a valve for the tank, and a valve for the heating. Wouldn't the better option simply be a pump on each circuit (instead of the valves)? Two pretty reliable items instead of three (everyone seems to...

OTOH, there still is some domestic consumption during the day, and overall that's when the majority of consumption is, isn't it? Ok; so it doesn't help much with the generation at point of use ideal, but Reducing the load at peak times is more effective than the same generation spread evenly...

You could possibly also look into a shallower trap. They tend to have the outlet (after the trap) higher, so allow a steeper fall...

Disregarding the questionable design issues; could the pipe(s) not be lagged or painted first to avoid the foam coming into contact with the copper while still solvent? Then onto the installed issues; if the building is so severely lacking; surely it is up the the landlord to make good and...

:idea: Thought; Any warm item "losing" heat to the surroundings has a greater heat loss per unit time at a higher temperature differential. Therefore keeping it at a higher temperature will always mean a greater number of heat units lost vs. allowing to cool (this would never involve losing...