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Well, serendipity is a wonderful thing. Walked into Wilko the other day and they had a unit on clearance that fit the gap nicely. Modified it with an old worktop cut to shape, screwed to wall with an aluminium angle left over from our kitchen and bobs your uncle. Works a charm

Thanks - what thickness of aluminium profile do you think it would need? And would that provide enough support on the corner close to the fridge?

To aid the conversation here is the space. I'm mostly worried about canterlever motion from the direction the picture is facing... (I'm hoping to be able to fix my beer engine on here at parties!)

I think the gap is around an inch from recollection... I've used dot and dab fixings on my 3m roller blind successfully but obviously this would have a lot more weight... In an ideal world I'd just stick a leg or two there but there's a cat flap which needs access underneath...

It's both 350 and 500 projecting depending which way you look at it since it's in a corner. Wall is dot and dab in this spot I believe Expected loads are around 20-30kg I think overall of We want to keep the space underneath as clear as possible hence the floating idea! Edit: oh and the...

I'm looking to create a floating shelf in an unused corner next to our fridge... The shelf would be 350mm x 500mm with the forces in the longer direction (since that faces in the same direction as the fridge) What's the best way to support? Current thinking is either: a) two 300mm floating...

So what confuses me about these are are that, the vast majority of front doors open inwards (at least in my experience) yet it appears these (from the vid) would need to be fitted outside, which would look a bit ugly... am I missing something?

Looks like that would work on the hinge side, (tho would prefer something screwed if I'm honest), but doesn't look like it would work on top/bottom or the opening side?

Here you go, attached. You can see it's got bits of foam/rubber there at the moment which as I say, is okay but not very neat

We are just having our wooden door re-painted and would like to sort out the insulation round the edges while I'm at it At the moment we have a mish mash of foam and rubber strips plastered round the edge that have built up over the years before we built in and they do an okay but not great job...

We've just had our soffits etc painted and there are a few light smears on the brickwork which I'd like to get off while the scaffold is still up It's not caked on, more like where painted hands have leant or a brush has been brushed against it, so not sure that a typical paint remover would do...

We've had to have a section of natural stone tile replaced and, while we knew this was a risk, sadly the new batch is a very different colour to the old batch. Has anyone found a product/sealer/similar for this situation that will even out the colour a bit?

That's kinda how I imagined... That said, there do seem to be a lot of positive reviews around which surely can't all be due to placebo effect...can they!?

Anyone used any of the above? Having an accumulator put in and tempted to get one of these at the same time - we only really want softening for ease of cleaning so these 'seem' to do the job but frankly I'm a pessimist and a lot of it seems like snake oil... Our plumber said he'd fitted an...

Did you post an edited photo?

Oh I know. There's no link whatsoever. Just bad timing!

So, seemingly completely coincidentally one of our taps just blew at the flex cable. And we have a very wet house. I returned the jumper in a panic before finding the cause... It might be a while til I get round to removing it again!

Fair. It's out. So far so good Will watch it (well listen) over then next 24hrs and see if it's behaving properly! Appreciate the help guys, fingers crossed!

Just looking at the instructions and it doesn't seem to suggest it needs removing unless you're using 24v controls... Am I misreading?

Photo of board attached. 24v loop is there So just remove that?