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Thanks @ianmcd good thinking.

Thanks guys. It is a WB Greenstar 24i and it does have a drain cock at the bottom of it (the only one I can find on the system so have used that to drain down before). I'll have a go at draining a bit out and see how much pressure there is when I unscrew the gauge.

Probably the stupidest question in a while so feel free to say so! A freak accident in the garage (falling timber) knocked the front off the boiler pressure gauge (needle and plastic front and the spindle the needle fits to). I have a replacement gauge and it is obviously a very simple job to...

Giant Hisense fridge freezer that has two rollers on the back (non adjustable), two rollers in the middle (non adjustable) and two adjustable feet at the front. When supplied the feet are wound all the way up which makes it a doddle to roll into place. The thing is that the deliberate design...

Thanks guys. I wish I had done this research before buying the tap! However, it seems to be working fine (the missus is happy...) so I'll slap the check valve on the cold and leave it.

The whole house is pumped (HW and CW) so pressures are equal at the bathrooms mixer taps, and showers. I guess it was done due to the low mains pressure and the hot water cylinder being on the ground floor (it was a a bungalow that has been extended into the loft). The only mains fed (therefore...

Thanks. Doesn't look like the one we got keeps the supplies separate. Looking up the spout there is only one hole that the water comes out of. The spec doesn't say: https://www.tapsuk.com/astini-colonial-brushed-steel-white-ceramic-handle-kitchen-sink-mixer-tap-p7842

Fitting a new kitchen and mixer tap. HW is pumped at 2.4 Bar, CW is mains at 1.3 Bar. I am thinking that the only "danger" of contamination is of the higher pressure HW forcing back into the cold supply via the mixer tap. Is that right? In which case it seems I would only need a single check...

Thanks.

Thanks, I'll go for that. Am I right in thinking that the top of it needs to be about 2mm below the bottom of the worktop to get a decent layer of silicon to flow in the gap?

I am fitting a double belfast sink and it sits on top of a belfast sink unit with a flat top (minus the holes I have made for the two wastes). When the worktop is fitted it will be silicon sealed to the worktop where that overhangs by 10mm on back and sides, but should I be seating it in a bed...

Thanks guys, that is exactly what I will do now. You have convinced me it has to be the easiest way to go. I shall use one of these. Question is whether it needs an condensation trap as well. I think the fact that it is insulated means no it doesn't but I could be wrong.

No. Here is a a fine piece of artwork I just knocked up!

The only way to access that area is to lift roof tiles and cut through the membrane and I'm not sure I want to do that (or can even access it easily now that the conservatory is "in the way").

Possibly. The "simplest" route would be to go vertically up from next to the right side of the beam. I haven't measured it but I think that would come up through the roof tiles (rather than the floor of the room above which starts further to the right). It would need a soil pipe roof kit, cowl...

Yes, that was suggested earlier in trhe thread and looks the way to go. The only thing is it means I have to core drill 4 x 91mm holes and I hate core drilling! I have diamond drills but that is still probably 45 mins per hole and a lot of aching arm muscles!

Probably the slope of the roof that comes down above the lintel. To raise the lintel and conservatory ceiling component would mean the whole lot sticking up proud of the sloping roof. As it was they had to remove two rows of roof tiles to butt the conservatory join against the level where the...

The steel took the place of the wall. For it to go further "back" (I assune you mean to be a continuation of the still extant external wall) we are talking chopping into the top of the wall in the next room (behind where that sensor hangs). That is a tiled bathroom so pita finishing off.

I don't know the dimensions of the beam other than it is approx 3m long. Pic from other side.

I don't know how big the steel is but the pillar was existing from when the wall was knocked through. If they had demolished the pillar then what would they rest that end of the steel on?