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I've got a plasterboard ceiling that used to have polystyrene tiles on it. The tiles have been removed, there's a tiny bit of mould and and some staining from a water leak (now fixed - boards seem solid). I'm going to clean the mould off, then I was planning to use Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 plus...

And just to clarify, I'm not talking about trying to install directly under the appliances with them in place, they would be moved out to do the install. My query was with regard to seamlessly flooring into the recesses or building bases and flooring up to them.

Maybe English isn't your first language! Read it again. I said I couldn't decide between flooring under the appliances or building a base then flooring up to it.

That's not what I said at all.

Great.

Maybe I misunderstood what you posted

Update Except that with a lip/drop comes greater chance of damaging the floor when moving appliances in and out...

Definitely trapped moisture, as I said, there was a leak from the bathroom above (now fixed). And yes, I don't particularly like these tiles, which is why I'm taking this opportunity to remove them.

We're having our kitchen redone, and we're removing the polystyrene tiles from the ceiling. Some of them were coming away anyway. There are a couple of small patches of mold. This is where we'd had a leak in the bathroom above, I believe. The plasterboard feels/sounds solid, and doesn't look...

So I don't have to move them again - ASSUMING that I don't put the flooring into the recesses. But I also don't want the recesses to be lower than the rest of the floor.

We're having our kitchen redone. We're doing it in stages, and we're doing the floor last. We still haven't even decided WHAT we want, whether it be lino, lvt, laminate, or tile. What doesn't help is that it is open plan into the dining room and at the moment it's old lino meeting carpet. I...

It's an option, but it all depends on the height as I want the countertop right up against the window board, but I won't know the actual available height until the floor is in.

Previously there wasn't sufficient space to have 2 full-size appliances side by side, but there is now. However, we're not going to replace the appliances we have until we need to. The backwall isn't bumpy, it's one of the short ends. A leg is the last resort, but I may have to bite the...

We have just had our back porch demolished and made larger. We are still waiting for the final screed to be put on the floor, but this is effectively a utility room. What we have now is a U shaped recess, in which I want to place a worktop. We have 2 plain red-brick walls (left end and back)...

Hi. We are in the process of ordering a new cooker. We currently have an old (~30 years!) 55cm free standing all gas cooker with eye level grill. We cannot fit a 60cm, and 50cm would leave a large gap, so we're very limited in the models we can choose. Especially as we are restricted to gas...

Right, all sorted - where to start? The guy who came out was VERY experienced. It seems there had been some confusion after the previous callout a month ago. So let's start there. I wasn't there when the previous engineer turned out - I called them out on behalf of the shop, but couldn't...

SSE on the case, noted a poor connection in the fuse, but doesn't know why. What I thought was molten plastic was bitumen, which is apparently in the fuses.

Just looked them, China Electrics Corporation have a different logo.

Interesting on the CE logo. I don't know how industrial installers deal with all this. As for the power, I've just checked an installed bulb, and it's rated at 230W, with space for 6 of them, that's 1,380W I previously assumed that they were 250W, which gives 1,500W. Leaving 3,000W for the...

Ok, at the moment it's only warm at the moment, but I've been told it has been too hot to touch. I think the fuse carrier is actually warmer than the tail. It's only the brown tail that's affected. They kept the previous tail that was removed, badly corroded with melted insulation, but ONLY...