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Have you tried a bent flexi on there? Might not need a spacer anymore.

I don’t think it uses Speedfit pipe as such, but it has a Speedfit connector (rather than a compression one, like I linked to above).

A bent flexible tap connector might do it - https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-bent-flexible-compression-hose-15mm-x-1-2-x-500mm/808fa

Afternoon all, I see Joule bought out RM Cylinders a few years back. Does this mean the RM Prostel or RM Optimum are decent options to fit now? Or best to stick with a Joule-branded Cyclone still? Any other recommendations welcomed. Cheers, Ben.

Not sure if we have anything like that around here (Tunbridge Wells, Kent). I’ve used these guys to fabricate a steel plate for me before, but not sure they’ll handle stuff like this - http://www.ellisandson.com/services/metal-fabrication.html.

Would the swarf/filings entering the HWC not potentially damage it (along with the pump or shower)? 1 & 2. Not sure offhand, will measure. Salamander said that a dip tube is required, as otherwise it will invalidate the warranty - as air bubbles can build up it around the edge of the HWC & get...

Evening all, Looking for a flange to connect a shower pump to a HWC. The cylinder has an integrated 22mm compression connection at the top (no 1” or ¾” BSP). It also has an unused 22mm compression tapping on the side, which is normally used as a secondary HW return. The problem: I can’t find a...

Thanks for the reply :) I’ll try & steer the wife towards the click/lock stuff (rather that T&G). Hopefully that’ll help keep the gapping to a minimum.

Joists > 18mm/25mm ply > 6mm UFH insulation boards > electric UFH > SLC > engineered herringbone planks. Sound right? Also, is there any requirement to stick the herringbone down, or can I just float it? Thanks in advance :)

Installing an Impey wetroom former/tray & tanking kit. The floor will be tanked, then electric UFH, then mosaics... but before that, the existing subfloor is P5 grade chipboard which is in good condition. I assume I'll need something over the top of that before tanking, i.e. thin ply/tile...

Thanks guys. From what I can see, it looks like a normal black plastic 110mm socket to be honest, only bigger! (Apart from the tabbed pipe "stops" you can see in the second pic). And yes, it connects to a brown clay pipe at the other end. Presumably to get a Hepsleeve AD 400 on, I'm going to...

Hi all, I have a socket (underground) which I need to connect onto. It appears to be made of black plastic & has an ID of approx 130mm/5". So I need something, i.e. a length of pipe, adapter, etc, with has a similar OD to connect into it (I'm eventually connecting it to a standard gully with a...

Hi all, We live an old Edwardian property that was converted into four flats many years ago. Myself & the owner of the ground floor flat have an outside tap each (The gardens are quite big, so these taps are freestanding, i.e. not mounted to the main building or anything). The single main...

Yeah, I think I misinterpreted that :oops: ... Anyhow, I got my money back on the motor & head/actuator, no probs. After a quick lesson on how to use a multimeter from my mate, I found that there was no live coming from the "CH on" programmer wire. Took the facia off the programmer, and...

It was a freebie. A mate gave it to me when he bought a new one. Thought it might come in handy one day. D'oh! Yeah, didn't think of that :oops: Anyway, turns out it's not the motor, or in fact the two port valve at all... Just popped out & bought some bits - changed the motor, nothing...

Unwired the motor & did a continuity test using a multimeter. Each time, it quickly flashes up a reading somewhere between 500-2000, then goes back to 1 very quickly. No audible beep... Testing the multimeter on other metal objects produces a beep every time & a 1-500 reading. I guess it's the...

Hi, the boiler doesn't fire when I open it manually either... I've taken the cover off the two port & there's definitely no movement when the CH is switched on. However, if I push the brass arm across to the microswitch internally, it fires, pump kicks in too. Does this point to the motor?

Thanks, is there any way I can tell whether it's the motor or microswitch at fault? Or should I just replace the cheapest component first & see if that works? Also, until it's fixed, is it okay to manually open the two port to provide me with some CH while the HW is on?

Hi all, I've changed the batteries & re-synced the RF roomstat, which all did as it's meant to. Other than that, nothing - no lights on the boiler, pump doesn't kick in, no movement on the motorised valve (The HW works fine - boiler, pump, etc). Any ideas?... My system is as follows: •...

Sorry, my understanding is that a Surrey flange was too restrictive for a whole house pump & I don't see how a Warix flange differs. Thanks for the tip, why is this?