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Think I might change the stopcock over as a matter of course, as it’s quite stiff anyway. Struggling to find one online that confirms it’s full bore. Would it be okay to swap it out for a 22mm lever valve instead?

Sorry, I probably should’ve mentioned I have a gravity fed system with conventional boiler & copper cylinder. Looking to swap to an unvented cylinder to improve the showers & have drinking water at all outlets. I tested again at 4pm today. I opened the kitchen tap, outdoor tap & bath tap (I...

Sorry, by “static flow” I meant flow with one outlet open & by “dynamic flow” I meant flow with two outlets open. Having looked at the internal pipework, it appears to be as you said - 22mm hot & cold everywhere, going down to 15mm at the final branches (with the exception of the 15mm incoming...

Hi, I have a 20mm MDPE incoming main, which reduces down to 15mm copper straight after the stopcock. Will this be adequate to supply to an unvented cylinder? (Family of three, with two shower rooms, though both are never/very rarely used at the same time. Would be easy enough to change the 15mm...

Morning all, further to my post here - https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/how-best-to-deal-with-underlay-between-me-my-neighbour.630154/ - after having the slates off, it turns out most of the timber was rotten (rafters, wallplate, fascia, bargeboard). So everything’s had to come off & most has...

I could, but then you would see all the old, falling down underlay from below (it’s an outhouse, so the ceiling isn’t lined). We’re hoping to sell in the autumn too, so thought a surveyor might not like the look of that.

Looks that way, but will confirm later. The battens look in okay condition to be fair. It is only an outhouse I suppose, so maybe they didn’t think the job needed to be A1 (just reread my OP & realise it may not have been clear it was just the outhouse, apologies). Sure, but obviously I’ll...

Unfortunately not, I’ve already lifted the slates to the join/boundary. I guess the underlay was in better condition on her side. Thanks, where’s the best point to cut/finish the old underlay on my side? Over the top of the first rafter I come to?

Hi, I live in a semi-detached house with an old outhouse attached at the back of the property (neighbours is the mirror of mine). A lot of water has started coming in. Had a look - quite a lot of the slates are cracked, some of them with large bits broken away. Whilst I’m redoing the slates...

Have you tried a bent flexi on there? Might not need a spacer anymore.

I don’t think it uses Speedfit pipe as such, but it has a Speedfit connector (rather than a compression one, like I linked to above).

A bent flexible tap connector might do it - https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-bent-flexible-compression-hose-15mm-x-1-2-x-500mm/808fa

Afternoon all, I see Joule bought out RM Cylinders a few years back. Does this mean the RM Prostel or RM Optimum are decent options to fit now? Or best to stick with a Joule-branded Cyclone still? Any other recommendations welcomed. Cheers, Ben.

Not sure if we have anything like that around here (Tunbridge Wells, Kent). I’ve used these guys to fabricate a steel plate for me before, but not sure they’ll handle stuff like this - http://www.ellisandson.com/services/metal-fabrication.html.

Would the swarf/filings entering the HWC not potentially damage it (along with the pump or shower)? 1 & 2. Not sure offhand, will measure. Salamander said that a dip tube is required, as otherwise it will invalidate the warranty - as air bubbles can build up it around the edge of the HWC & get...

Evening all, Looking for a flange to connect a shower pump to a HWC. The cylinder has an integrated 22mm compression connection at the top (no 1” or ¾” BSP). It also has an unused 22mm compression tapping on the side, which is normally used as a secondary HW return. The problem: I can’t find a...

Thanks for the reply :) I’ll try & steer the wife towards the click/lock stuff (rather that T&G). Hopefully that’ll help keep the gapping to a minimum.

Joists > 18mm/25mm ply > 6mm UFH insulation boards > electric UFH > SLC > engineered herringbone planks. Sound right? Also, is there any requirement to stick the herringbone down, or can I just float it? Thanks in advance :)

Installing an Impey wetroom former/tray & tanking kit. The floor will be tanked, then electric UFH, then mosaics... but before that, the existing subfloor is P5 grade chipboard which is in good condition. I assume I'll need something over the top of that before tanking, i.e. thin ply/tile...

Thanks guys. From what I can see, it looks like a normal black plastic 110mm socket to be honest, only bigger! (Apart from the tabbed pipe "stops" you can see in the second pic). And yes, it connects to a brown clay pipe at the other end. Presumably to get a Hepsleeve AD 400 on, I'm going to...