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Hi folks, Just something I've been noticing for a few days now. Boiler will appear to be running continuously 5 to 10 minutes after DHW demand. No such problems with CH, it just seems to get "stuck" in a sort of 'semi-operation' mode. A bit more explanation: I can hear what sounds like the...

Normally you would have to flush the system through with a cleaning agent if commissioning from new, but seeing as it's just one radiator, you can probably get away with just refilling (then adding inhibitor). Provided nothing's fallen into the pipework of course (bits of copper debris etc)...

Fernox F1 or Sentinel X100 for the inhibitor, I can't really recommend anything else. Go for the 'Express' or 'Rapid Dose' versions, unless you already have a towel radiator (see video here).

Empty the condensate trap/syphon whilst your there - it's the big grey plastic thing in the middle of the photo. Just place a bowl underneath it and undo the plastic clip and watch all the gunk fall out. Clean it up with a cloth and replace the cap (fiddly little things, I'm sure there's a...

You should only bleed and re-fill the rads with the boiler off (preferably at the fused spur). Bleed downstairs rads > Refill to 1.5bar > Bleed downstairs rads again > Refill to 1.5bar (if necessary) > Bleed upstairs rads etc, etc (not forgetting the Fernox F1). The Automatic Air Vent above...

It's probably set up that way so the water tank is used as a bypass, unless of course you cannot get hot water separately without running the CH at the same time. As mentioned, that would point to a fault either with the programmer or the MV. Some of the Danfoss programmers only have a...

Salus have a drop-in replacement (RT500RF BC) for your boiler which will set you back around £50 (there's a seller on eBay). It's easy to install, just turn the power off to the system, disconnect and remove the old timer module (3 wires), and plug in the wireless module (same 3 wires). I...

I can't think of anything else you could do. Might be time to call an engineer in. Once they've had a look at the existing layout they'll advise accordingly. If everything else checks out OK, they'll probably get the pipes tee'd off nearer the boiler, and maybe relocate the room stat, depends...

Yes you normally have to get the pilot lit, hold the control down, then turn to the desired temperature (or max). It's not too dissimilar to how an oven or grill works. If the pilot still goes out it's probably a thermocouple that needs cleaning or replacing (not a DIY job).

Yes the whole cover has to come off on these models. The hinged plastic cover is attached to the main one, so it all comes off in one go. Everything else stays where it is (thankfully). Also check the fused spur, as often the stat is wired in behind there. I would recommend getting a pro in...

Is there any difference if you run CH+HW together? Maybe having the pump turn on/ off in CH mode (coupled with a satisfied room stat), is not allowing the two rads in question an adequate chance to heat up properly. In CH+HW mode the pump will (usually) run constantly (well, it does on my...

Yes you'll lose system pressure whenever you bleed one of the rads. If you have the instruction manual for your boiler then you'll be able to ID where the filling loop goes, and top up the system accordingly (see this video to get the general gist of things). Often the filling loop is left...

I had a kind of similar issue last year when I drained down a vented system. When refilling, I bled all the rads, pump etc but the pump sounded a bit dry, so I left it off for a few hours to let the water settle in. After the wait, I turned the system back on, but with the boiler thermostat...

You could replace it with a Danfoss 103E5 or 103E7 digital timeswitch. These two models don't require any wiring-in as they fit over the existing back-plate (when you remove the old one). A pretty easy DIY job (just remember to isolate the power beforehand). Note that only the 103 models...

Good point Brad, I'll be getting on with it hopefully over the weekend :)

Ah, thanks for the clarification. I'll think I will probably end up calling someone in to re-board and plaster it. Seems like the best option, as the missus will probably have a fit if she sees I've taken it all down by myself! :roll:

Hi, thanks for your quick reply. OK so basically the plaster will adhere to the surface without the PVA? I've read conflicting reports on PVA, some swear by it, others say it's over-used and often unnecessary in a lot of cases.

Hi folks, Basically, I need some advice regarding a Bathroom ceiling. We removed the 25 year old Artex as it was starting to peel and flake off. Only problem is, on doing so the difficult patches have taken some of the plasterboard lining paper away with it, revealing a cardboard-like...

Bathroom ceiling after removal of Artex, showing joints between plasterboard.

Bathroom ceiling after removal of Artex.