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There are 4 cables running into this box : 2 are red/black/earth 1 is Brown/blue/earth The last is yellow/blue/red/earth

Maybe the additional cables were for the heating as the boiler used to be in this corner. It was moved into a cupboard upstairs where the immersion heater would have been I guess. There is a switch the other side of the kitchen marked as "water heater" which does isolate the boiler upstairs.

And this is what is there altogether

this is the second one that was hidden

Just in the process of removing tiles in the kitchen and came across a hidden socket (well two actually). These were just sat behind the tiles. One looks like a standard single socket but I'm not sure of the other because of the extra wires in it. Anyone shed any light on this please?

Hi Nortonj, I pulled it out to show the fins. There seem to be very few to all the ones I've seen at plumbers merchants

So tested as per Madrab suggested but with a candle, we're right out of incense sticks! Soon as the loo was flushed the flame was sucked in towards the joint. So I'm thinking that flexible connector has seen better days. I also noticed that there was some silicone at the joint round the back...

Madrab, be home in a hour or so, so will test to see if I can feel any air as you have suggested. If I can't feel anything I will put up a couple of pics. Thanks for the advice so far

Thanks Madrab, I'll try the incese stick test later when I get home. The flexible connector goes quite far into the soil system but none of the "sealing fins" go into it. I thought they may have to, to create the seal.

Afternoon all, We moved into a new house (to us anyway) and one of the benefits was an ensuite, however we have noticed that every now and then (especially in the colder weather) a smell of sewage. I've been reading several forums and posts and had a dig around. From what I can tell, there is...

Eric, The house is an ex local authority so there are no records within the CU. There is no FCU. It looks like its a direct line from the cooker connection unit. The oven says "Current 16A" and is rated at 2.9KW if this is of any use? It also says that a all pole isolation switch...

We have bought a new electric cooker and gas hob with the usual electric ignition. We have a cooker connection which has a 40amp mcb within the main fuse box which is in an adjacent cupboard. The cooker says that it requires a 16amp connection, so I am aware this needs to be wired...

Evening All, Our shower started smelling, so I've opened it up and found what appears to be a iffy connection to the terminal block as its burnt and so is part of the wiring. I've stripped back the 6mm cable, removing the bad section but want to replace the terminal block. Could someone...

Found somewhere to get the cable in short lengths, just need to know the best way to join it now.

Any electricians on here that could sell me a short section of the cable I need? Been looking online and the smallest amount I can buy is 25m, all I need is about 25cm at the very most!

I agree that it's a mate-n-lok connector, but I can't find out how to separate a cable from the connector. I could buy a new connector and pins but I would also need to buy all the cables too. If I could extend the neutral cable, this would be the easiest solution for me I guess without...

Thanks Eric mark, but what about if the cable is too short once the damaged section is removed?

Morning All, Thanks for the help. So far. Is it possible to safely join tri rated cable and if so how should it be done? Don't suppose anyone knows where it can be bought in short lengths? I probably need 6 inch at the most :-) Scott

The connector shown in the photo is pushed through a hole in the module (along with others) and this is where another connector plugs into it. I'm guessing directly from the 16A supply. There are some wiring diagrams of the module online, I'll upload one tomorrow if I can.

If I cut back the damaged part of the neutral cable it will no longer be long enough to reach the base of the RCD so I need to either replace or extend it. I would have thought replacing it would be difficultdue to the connector. The cable is marked H07V2–K 450/75