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soldering 13 wires all together would be a bit rough, so I would still use a bit of new wire to make a link between smaller groups. this is the right kind of idea: http://www.instructables.com/id/Soldering-multiple-wires-for-a-distribution-joint/ I would double layer the heat shrink to be on...

That's just because one of the joints had two thick wires and the other only one. it's just to make space. If you have enough slack to work with it's just a question of joining all the wires together and insulating them from the body of the fitting. You can change how they are grouped if that...

when it comes to joining wires, what tools/experience do you have? soldering? crimping? I think that's a typo, I would call it a wire nut. I also think they are a bit crap

If going for a complete rewire, rather than trying to salvage what is there: 1: Chop all the wires, and untangle them. 2: loosen the cross head screws and pull out the 12 legs, taking care not to strain the remaining wiring inside the legs 3: loosen the grub screw in the top of each lamp...

hehe, I thought better of my first guess and edited my post before I even saw your reply. assuming it comes to bits easily, assuming the cables are joined to the holders in a convenient way..... But I would always take things to bits as the first port of call. Even if I'm not sure how to put...

It almost certainly can be rewired, but it could be a bit tricky to join all those wires neatly in a small space. I would DIY it but you might be more comfortable taking it to a pro. At a guess I think it might take me a bit more than an hour, and use less than £10 of parts. (or it might turn...

As I read it, the black box in the first post is just the sensor, and the outside light is elsewhere. It's *probably* a case of altering the wiring behind the switch and the white cable will no longer required. If so, it should be ideally be removed (but you probably won't need to replace it)...

Do you still have some fittings that work? the easiest way to find the problem may be to swap parts around. Because you seem inexperienced, I want to make sure you know that turning off light fittings at their normal switch may not be sufficient to make them safe to work on. You must switch...

I've seen this where a wire inside the oven was arcing against the case. With the oven isolated I would take the covers off and look for evidence of: 1. bare copper showing through on wires 2. overheated or deformed insulation 3. scorch marks 4. pinholes in sheet metal, particularly where it...

At the moment, your horstman probably controls two outputs, one for the off peak that heats the whole tank using the bottom element, and one for the boost that heats the top part only. It's done this way to save money - heating the whole tank with daytime electricity is expensive, but it also...

Final update: I did get a cheapo replacement Cap, it got lost in the Christmas post. Once found and fitted I had ~110v on the stator windings as I should. It then sat about for a while until I had a chance to load test it and adjust the speed. I had that chance today. Sped it up slightly to...

If you decide to go for external runs of cable without conduit, they should approach the holes in the wall from below, which may require a loop of extra cable. That way any rainwater running along the cables isn't delivered to the hole/grommet/gland/whatever. e.g.

update: when running cold, it's at about 49.5 Hz, so speed is OK The capacitor only reads 11 uF when it should be 14, and the windings are all a bit off from spec. I called mecc alte. the technical guy seems nice enough, but not very hopeful. He said a tolerance of 20% was fairly normal on...

I don't have a stroboscope, but a friend is going to lend me a fluke on Wednesday that has a frequency mode, so I should be able get shaft speed from the exciter frequency. I'm hoping it will give me a better measure of the winding's resistance and the capacitor's capacitance too. Thus...

Hi Ericmark, I don't fully understand the voltage regulation but I think it is achieved by some combination of a) driving the iron cores to the edge of saturation, b) changes in the current and/or power factor of the excitation winding and c) possibly the varistors have a role in limiting rotor...

Thanks simon! after searching through my supply of modern LED and fluorescent bulbs, I found a GU50. Inefficient old halogen spot lights to the rescue :p DSC_0021 by AnotherTom posted 10 Dec 2017 at 9:34 PM I think it's dimmer than usual, but still putting out plenty of light, so I think the...

lamp lights through capacitor

Hi folks, Not been on here for a few years. see some familiar names though. Can anyone help me troubleshoot a 3.5 KVa capacitor regulated brushless alternator? It produces almost no voltage on the outputs (about 4 Vac open circuit at stator winding) So far I have: 1: checked the excitation...

you may find this useful http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kruithof_curve it shows how we perceive different colour temperature according to brightness. Tom