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The RCD issue is a new one for me. It is a type A. It works okay with my 7kW car charger and all the other gismos in the house, but I hadn't realised there were different types for different applications. The (preferred) Mitsubishi A/C unit manual does not appear to specify the required type...

30mA.

I have 4 x 32A ring mains in my home, but I would of course only use one of them. The A/C contractor I use will no doubt include the installation in the price. I see no compelling reason why an air conditioning unit which supplies 2 rooms and takes an electrical load of just 1.4kW cooling, or...

I have just had a local A/C installation company in to survey for a quote. They have no problem with connecting it to the ring main, so I will let them get on with it!

I accept that, but once again there is confusion between cooling/heating capacity and electrical capacity. The dual unit I am looking at is a Mitsubishi MXZ-2F53VF (or similar) which is rated for cooling/heating at 5.3kW, but the electrical loading is just 1.4kW, or 1.56kW if used for heating...

It's max, not constant. Running current will be considerably lower. The ring can carry 30A. I don't see the problem, but that's why I'm asking.

It's all a bit woolly, but the manual says the max current is 12.2 Amps. I understand the need for an isolator, just cannot understand why it needs to be a rotary isolator.

I am a former electrician, though not certificated any more. Nevertheless, I still do my own electrical work at home. I am considering air-conditioning and would like to install the power supply to the outside wall, for a single Mitsubishi MXZ-2F53VF condenser unit with 2 internal (cooling)...

I have our Dimplex Danville optimyst fire for about 5 years now. The flame effect has always been a bit of a pain. I've had to replace the transducer discs from time to time, and replaced the transducer itself, but after a few months it plays up again. Once again it stopped producing mist, so...

Good thinking Denso13. I think I will wait until warmer weather and replace with a double radiator. With luck, I should be able to cut the existing half inch pipes a couple of inches above the floor and use a couple of 45 degree yorkshire couplers to set each pipe out to line up with the new...

Fans are available on Amazon. Have a look and shop around for the best price. An easy fix - if that is the cause of the problem!

Thanks Denso. I'm inclined to think it might be a bit of both. I'm just not keen on converting from a single non-finned to a double finned radiator over a concrete floor. I think I will need to offset the (half-inch) pipes by up to 50mm. Not sure I've got the skill level...

My gas CH system is 50 years old (the boiler is somewhat newer!) and works fine. As I refit a room, I normally replace the huge inefficient old radiators with a finned version less than half the size, no problem. Except the downstairs cloakroom. The (original) 2ft square single radiator heats...

Thanks John. I've finally found a video on Youtube with a repairman stripping down a Honda roller mower for spares. It does look a bit of a caper! Interestingly he pointed out an adjustment screw underneath which I might try, but tbh if I get that far I might as well change the belt while I'm...

Hi. I've got a Honda HRX 476 QX roller mower, a very good machine, but after an hour or so it starts to lose propulsion drive, so I end up having to push it. I suspect it might be the belt slipping (it's worth a try anyway). Does anyone know how to access the belt to replace it?

You're right - original plaster, then artex, now 2 skims! The crack appears slightly wavy, but it is more or less straight (if that makes sense) and at right angles to the joists above, right across the middle of the ceiling, from one wall to the other. It's a pain in the ar*e. I think I will...

Well, Steve, I'm afraid you are right - two weeks later (room all finished now) and the crack has reappeared. I really don't know what to do now. I had the ceiling artexed 10 years or so ago - it must have had a crack then otherwise I wouldn't have had it artexed. The artex was still in...

Well, my plasterer came back no problem. He found two other hairline cracks which I hadn't noticed. He can only assume that the cracks were present under the old artex, and the moisture from the replastering must have opened them up - who knows? Anyway, he put on a new coat of PVA solution...

Yes, I am a good custard - but only if he gets it right! Thanks all - pity it cracked in the first place though.

Thanks guys. Skimmers, the plasterer cut a groove with a stanley knife, painted the groove with PVA solution, and filled it with easifill. Steve, I think you may be right, I may well have over-cooked it with the rubbing down, trying to make it invisible. The plasterer is coming back -...