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Actually, they are earthed and the screw thread is exactly the same as the E27 type. What I was thinking, is, does a 110v 150w bulb give off the same heat as a 240v 60w halogen/tungsten bulb? (Even though I'd probably use 15w R80 CFL reflector lamps anyway)

If I did just get the American ones, they would work fine on 240v with UK equivalent 60w or less bulbs though right? As the voltage is 110v, the current is higher, so a 60w bulb is equivalent to 150w in the US, the connection wires are 1.5mm (14 gauge), so no problem right?

Because the fittings are deep and lined with reflective metal, the bulbs are deep up inside the fitting so there's no glaring lightbulbs protruding down. The effect is like this: http://rowhouserenovation.files.wordpress.com/2010/07/sills-009.jpg for instance in this one...

this is the only type I can find, but again, the bulb is flush with the base, and doesn't accept CFL bulbs, I want a deep recessed reflector like the US type I found these: http://www.nationallighting.co.uk/Interior_Lighting/Downlights/Compact_Fluorescent_Downlights/catid/59/55/bs/all/1 but...

No, this website is a Chinese site that ships products primarily for the US market, but also free to the UK, so all electrical fittings are rated at 110 volts

Hi, I was wondering if anyone knows if deep recessed downlights that accept R60 reflector or Edison screw energy saving bulbs are available in the UK. It seems like you can only get small halogen downlights or R60 "eyeball" lights, but I find the GU50 bulbs and their low-energy equivalents are...

try holding a piece of plasterboard up to the ceiling, the stipples will probably dent the underside and it'll be flat. If asbestos is wet it is fine, because it binds the particles, asbestos is only dangerous if it becomes damaged and forms dust that you can breathe in, so steaming is perfectly...

I had something that looked very similar in my house on the ceilings. I tried removing it with a wallpaper steamer, and it basically melted and turned to rubbery goop and peeled straight off leaving a nice smooth ceiling. Worth a try. Otherwise, why do you need to batten the ceiling? Why not...

SIMPLE: cut a small piece of timber batten long enough to 'bridge' the hole, pass it through the hole, and lay it ontop of the plasterboard, hold it whilst you screw up into the wood through the plasterboard from below. Now you have a nice wooden batten to screw a fist-sized chunk of...

As it's in the airing cupboard, if it was me, I would ignore the 3m from bath socket outlet guidance because an airing cupboard is basically an enclosed room with a door (it's no different to a socket outlet in the wall just outside the bathroom door is it?). Although, the circuit supplying the...

The condenser dryer is your main source of humidity (and hence condensation). They don't condense all of the water, and a lot of moisture ends up in the air. They should be banned in favor of ducted dryers. Also, do you have adequate ventillation (wall vents/window trickle vents and...

As others have said, choose a high-performance centrifugal fan. Installing it as far away from the shower as possible will make it very quiet. The MOST IMPORTANT consideration is to use INSULATED ducting, I learnt this the hard way. In the garage, water will condense in an uninsulated duct...

although thinking about it, 50 degrees is more than hot enough for hot water, you just mix less cold with it at outlets. There shouldn't be any risk of legionella because it's mains pressure and there's no potable water being 'stored' as such, therefore the thermal store temp only needs to be...

I thought this was the case, that's why I originally said, is it ok to just turn up the cylinder stat to 80 degrees and modify an old indirect cylinder to use as a thermal store instead? Do PHE's heat up the water INSTANTLY? Or is there a short heat-up time for the potable water side of the...

it's best to insulate all water pipes (hot and cold) by the way, it keeps the hot water hot and the cold water cold, it's obvious but lots of people don't seem to think about that when they're running pipes :?

as long as the line is 6mm, you probably need to upgrade to a 40a mcb

Simon, my rads and underfloor heating are on separate zone valves, however, the underfloor heating pipework and manifold is in a different location to the cylinder and connected to the flow and return in the kitchen wall, so it would be virtually impossible to run a new flow and return from the...

There are 5 outlets on one long 22mm run starting in the airing cupboard, going down through the guest bath, on through the utility, under the floor to the kitchen island, then under the floor to the main kitchen sink. All outlets are used infrequently for hand washing, spraying off plates or...

okay, thanks, appreciate your advice. We have a water softener so there won't be any scaling, I don't know the rating of the cylinder's coil, it fills the bath to the top, then takes about 1/2 hour to fully heat up again, however, when you say heat the cylinder directly, would I need to cut two...

Problem is, my main concern is that the recovery time is fairy long at the moment, sometimes I switch on the immersion at the same time as the boiler just to make sure there's enough hot water if I'm taking a bath and someone else is taking a shower. That's why I thought I could use a 3-port...