I too have this problem with my decking.
The very centre pools water. Dries quick now in the summer but the winter it may become an ice rink.
I thought about drilling holes in each channel across the problem area....and just treating the holes like you would a cut end and top up each year.
I...
Loads of 150mm tap connectors on Amazon. Just not the type I need.
Forgot to mention it's an M10 connection into the taps. So I need M10 to 15mm flexi connector.
I have built a shelf for a countertop sink and tap to sit on. All the pipework is exposed. It's all chrome and very neat so looks pretty cool (IMO)....however the taps connectors are 300mm long and (IMO) look a bit crap.
150mm flexible tap connector would be sweet...they'd tuck in nicely under...
Looking for advice on resin driveways.
I'm looking at using a non uv stable resin with a grey/silver stone for my driveway.
I've read various things regarding the issues with using a non uv stable resin.
Some say it will just give the stone a very slight honey tint to the appearance...whilst...
i have a part built single skin blockwork shed at the end of the garden. It's an eye saw. I was planning on having it rendered but don't have the funds at the minute.
Is it a bad idea to paint it until I can get it rendered in a couple of years?
For my extension - single storey, 4m out x 6m wife - I thought I applied for 'permitted development'. Perhaps it was called something else 'neighbour consultation' rings a bell.
Anyway, if you do need to go down this route... it was a really quick and easy. 1 single sided form to fill out. I...
Looking at converting my front garden into a driveway. Considering either tarmac or resin bound.
After digger, skip, whacker hire amongst other things, I'm wondering if it's just worth paying to have it done.
Does anyone know the going rate per m2?
It's too unlevel to put joists straight on the base.
I'm putting decking down as a cheaper, quicker alternative to flagging...so taking up the concrete base would take to much time and money (skip and tool hire) to justify.
I'm going to put the joists at 400mm centres....just not sure how many...
I know the standard for a decking sub frame is to use 6x2 joists. That's unrealistic for me though as I have a concrete base and bifold doors that limit the size of the joist I use. I thought I'd get away with 4x2 but even that is too deep.
The decking is going on an uneven concrete base (old...
Interesting option, vinyl.
I was planning on standard floor/wall tiles which I assume are ceramic.
You may have gathered: tiling is totally new to me. People told me I could easily do it but I heavy underestimated floor preparation.
So I'm fitting a bathroom myself. All the plumbing, fixtures and fittinga are all straight forward to me. Tiling on the other hand is new to me.
I thought the floorboards were a bit rough so I went out and bought some 3.5mm ply and covered it. I screwed it in plenty (every 6") and stupidily...
Just 'self-levelled' an area of my floor. Although it felt more like I was plastering a floor. It certainly didn't feel like it was levelling itself.
Now I have a couple of raised areas.
Is there a tool I can use to 'sand down' those patches?[/list]
I'm self levelling a 20m2 area, around 5mm. I was after a spiked roller and ideally a one of those smoothing tools (looks like a rake but with a flap on the end instead).
I haven't got time to order one of the web, so I need a shop. Any ideas?
I there a BTU calculator you recommend. I just want to double check my figures. Aparantely is only need roughly 2000btu per zone. I the minute I'm planning on 6500btu per zone. Overkill? Or will it just heat it nice and quick? I know my boiler is capable heating them all (according to my plumber).