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A boiler engineer has gouged some marks into the cork floor when moving a washing machine and I'm looking for the best way to repair them.　 Floor is 30cm2 raw cork tiles glued to a concrete subfloor and finished with Osmo Polyx floor wax/oil.　 1) Sand down the surrounded area and re-oil - not...

Because we have an induction hob. :)

Asked the plumber (gassafe) last time he was here and he would have to see it failing to fire up to diagnose it - which means trying to get a boiler engineer first thing on a freezing morning with zero notice, not the easiest of tasks. Might just get it serviced and see if they find anything...

This is the underneath of the boiler, I don't know which does what but I could work it out from the manual - I point the hairdryer at the pipes and the underside of the unit so could be either that makes it work: https://www.plumbase.co.uk/link/1/vokcom24_22534_t.PDF The green LED flashes...

Problem still as per above, but got more of a handle on it now - my wife spent an hour trying to reset and fire up the heating this morning, but then 30 seconds pointing a hairdryer at the pipes underneath got it to start with no problems. So seems that something is too cold for the boiler to...

Thanks. Is it worth me taking the trap off and pouring water directly down the pipe to see what happens? If it's as you say would the blooping under the floor still be there? From the sound, and the gap between the water draining away and the bloop, I get the feeling there's water sitting in the...

Our basin has quite an extreme case of gurgling in the u-bend, but a second or so after that has stopped there is a gurgling/'air passing through water' noise in the waste pipe under the floor somewhere. The floor is tiled so I can't identify exactly where it's coming from, and it's more of a...

No, looking at that I'll get the plumber to do it when he's capping off a few pipes - I know from experience that there's only one way to get these things right but plenty of ways to get them wrong. :)

Okay it's just the Compact 24, not the SE: http://library.plumbase.co.uk/flipbooks/RE/vokcom24_20480_t/vokcom24_20480_t.html#p=2 It has the timeclock on the right hand side.

Yeah it has a mechanical timer wired in and on the wall next to it, and a wire then going to a thermostat in our hallway. Plumber was fairly certain it was compatible with our boiler. edit: I see what you mean - the manual for the Compact 24SE shows a different front - we have a gauge on the...

Pretty sure it's a Vokera Compact 24SE - I've taken the front/lid off before, but the control panel is a grey strip in the middle, don't yet know how that would be removed. The demo video I saw had a boiler with a flip-down control panel that unscrewed from the main unit, so maybe the Vokera...

A plumber suggested I could change my wired timer/thermostat by fitting a Salus RT500BC - it replaces the round mechanical timer in the boiler's faceplate (Vokera Compact). The documentation says it takes about a minute to fit, and doesn't even have any 'wiring' as such, just small metal wire...

Looking at the regs, they are to do with jets of water potentially hitting the fitting, not people touching them with wet hands. The highest spec lights are those that can be submerged underwater like for a jacuzzi. Anyway, the fitting isn't separate from the glass shade so it'll have to go back.

So it would be okay from an IP44 perspective because of where it's situated (far enough away from water sources) but we shouldn't risk it because it might not cope with the humidity? If we replace the pendant with a bathroom spec one I presume we're okay to use the glass shade itself? (if...

We bought this to find that the instructions say it's not suitable for use in bathrooms. It's just a glass shade and pendant fitting, pretty much the same as we have fitted currently (probably been there for years, before we moved in)...

Short version: deccy did a pretty awful lining-and-paint job on the top half of our bathroom walls, loads of air bubbles still there at the start of the second day which were just painted over in a hope that they would disappear, and the ones that wouldn't were just filled over with Easifill...

Quote of £240ish to cap pipes and drain (but not remove) tank, inc materials - seems OTT or am I missing something? Would be looking to get pipes stopped as low to the ground as possible, not just capping them up in the loft leaving a few dead legs still linked to the mains.

We have a metal cold water tank in the loft that is no longer supplies anything (everything has been transferred to the mains) but is still full and linked to the mains. How much would we be looking at to get it disconnected, drained, and the pipes and tank removed?　 The tank would need to be...

That's what I'll be going for I think, just trying to gauge how a plasterer should react when I ask him to do it. :)

We have a bedroom ceiling that is papered but the board is really thin, seems like a thick hardboard, probably done years ago when plastering cost loadsamoney. I'm sure the plasterer that did our kitchen said he couldn't plaster over this kind of board, that's why he had to overboard it first...