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Thanks burnerman. Is there a satisfactory way to test both? I imagine the control box is not something many people would bother testing, with it just being replaced complete if it is suspect. Other than the tests I've performed as above, I don't see much else that can be done. Problem...

Thanks for the replies everyone, they're all very much appreciated. Mr Therm - that's exactly what it seems like to me. The complete boiler stat unit was replaced 6 mths ago as excessive oxidisation on the capillaries had caused it to fail, it's a dual safe type with the manual overheat...

Could you upload a photo? If not try a google image search for that boiler.

Is that a combi boiler? You should have separate controls for heating & hot water. It could be either the control panel itself or its wiring. Or, a zone valve is stuck or the actuator that controls it is worn.

Follow the oil line until it reaches the boiler, there it will connect to the pump. The bleed valve should generally be quite accessible. The bleed valve is usually opened with an Allen key. It should be somewhere on the pump itself. Be careful it's not the damper though. I've never worked on...

Thanks for the reply. When it was cold I disconnected the photocell and sure enough it fired up & then shut down within 5 secs just as it should. When its warm it just will not fire at all no matter what I try. If I'm beside the boiler and I start it from cold (it starts perfectly) and...

Bit confused on this one, burner will fire perfectly from cold until the boiler stat stops calling for heat, then it cools until the stat calls for heat again, then it purges and attempts ignition but goes to lockout. It won't fire again if the lockout button is pressed until about 45mins later...