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Thanks for the replies Elkato. Regarding the boiler firing, I will have to sit with it one time during a cylinder heating phase and make a log of when and how long it fires for to be sure. That’s useful to know regarding how thin the walls of the cylinder may be. If that’s the case then it...

I took this as well if it helps to tell whereabouts it is. It’s approx one third up the cylinder.

Here it is

I’ve now refitted the stat with thermal paste and it seems slightly better but still not right I don’t think

I did yes so I replaced the stat not long after we had the new cylinder hoping that would sort it, alas

That’s a good shout thank you, I’ll try that. It also works the other way in that the water inside can be going cool which leads to a lukewarm shower because there is still latent heat within the casing causing the stat to think it’s up to temp.

Hmm, I don’t think it is fine because there are long periods when the pump is still circulating due to not receiving the off signal from the thermostat even though the water inside the cylinder is all heated up. Are there thermostats available that would more accurately monitor the internal...

Hi guys, Thanks for the replies. It is foam lagged and I've removed a chunk of it so that the thermostat is touching the surface of the cylinder. Sorry you can't make out much in this pic but it's buried behind 3 layers of insulation. When it arrived I gave it a good look over and there...

Hi all, Hoping this is just a small one. Last year we had our HWC replaced with a steel one as the size it came in was best for the space we had available. At the time I refitted the previous surface mounted thermostat from the old cylinder and found that the temperature control wasn’t as good...

Hi all, I'm about to embark on a project of raising a concrete floor by around 85mm so that its new FFL sits at the same height as the rest of the ground floor of our house. As I have this much depth to play with, I'd like to take the opportunity to put some insulation down so as to help make...

Yeah, that’s what I was thinking about with the ventilation. Would be good to clarify that if someone can? Yes, I’ll make sure the joists sit flat. I was thinking of screwing them down into the current concrete floor with screws that would penetrate perhaps an inch or so into it with a rawl...

Edit: removed double post.

Yeah cellotex would be good. I would prefer to use timbers and then a floor board across them. Would I need to ventilate with this method? If so, how would I achieve this? The difference in floor height is around 85mm.

Tictac - We’d like to raise it to match the level in the rest of the house. It’s a conservatory with a flat roof (garden room) and I feel that having it at the same level as the rest of the ground floor will help to make it feel more like part of the house, rather than an extension to it. It’s...

This is what I’m concerned about bobasd. Although the reason we’d like to raise the floor in this room is so that it matches the FFL of the adjacent room, therefore giving us the smooth transition. There’s a bit more detail on this idea in my other thread here...

Hi! Thanks for the reply! Yes, it does open outwards otherwise we wouldn’t even be considering doing it. We could go one brick coarse up yes but then we’d need a new door as it’s pretty tight to the ceiling as it is and I don’t think we’re that bothered about doing it if it involves a new...

Would greatly appreciate any insight if someone can help? Thank you

Hi all! We're thinking of raising the level of an existing concrete floor by around 8-9cms so that it is level with the rest of the property. However, doing this will mean that the new floor would be around 2cm above the top of the current door frame. i.e. looking from the outside in with the...

Hey man. You replied to my thread the other day regarding levelling some floors https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/can-we-level-multiple-floor-heights.498508/ I’ve since replied to your questions and was wondering if you’d be able to give me a bit more advice? Thank you :)

Hi! Thanks for the reply! Yeah that adapter for the WC looks good. The current soil pipe does protrude from the WC floor by around 50mm so I think it would still be connectable anyway. Regarding the door. The idea would be to bring the floor up by approx 85mm on the inside. It’s a step down...