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Ok, I see what you mean now. I'm guessing its handier for the roofer to just add something new rather than looking in detail at what is already there. He said that if all the discharge from the top dormer roof was coming down a new drainpipe its very unlikely the leak we were seeing would recur...

If I was asking you, what would you (rather than your under pants) recommend?

We had a roofer out earlier looking at the outlet. He was not keen on lifting slates to find evidence of a source for the leak. He proposed covering the area around the outlet in aluminium flashing and using that this to route water down a new drain pipe which would run down the side of the...

Thanks, that makes sense as a good starting point. Should the ridge tiles and cement also be removed do you think? I don't mind a fresh start at all but I'm not sure what it could be replaced with. Could more fibreglass be added on and used as a diverter or are there other options?

i went up on the dormer roof and took a few more pictures. the problem outlet is ~ 6 inches wide and concrete makes the flow take an immediate 90 degree turn down the rear pitched roof beside the dormer. there is a wider outlet (12+ inches) on the far side of the dormer roof which hasnt given...

firstly, note that 1-2 years ago when the leak happened again, i went out with a hose pipe and hosed each section of the roof for 30-60m. i eventually got the leak to restart when i set the hose up on the dormer roof pointing out at the dormer grp outlet. i thought that the concrete at the...

our architect designed it this way unfortunately for us. years later i was looking in a housebuilding book and found the attached page with a big x through our dormer design. attached is a picture of the dormer roof water outlet which is made up of grp, cement, slates with a lead soaker...

our house was renovated 6 years ago and a dormer added with a grp roof and zinc sides. the dormer roof discharges water through 2 outlets (A,B in attached plan.png) onto different parts of the pitched fibre-cement roof. most of the water discharges directly beside the dormer on one side (A)...

FYI ... tiny flange

Cheers, that looks more robust and I don't mind getting a plumber to move pipes around if necessary to better support the vessel. However, the 24L pressure vessel we have is quite wide @ 351mm. Do you know if that L bracket arm and opening is long enough to fit this vessel? Thanks for your help!

Yes, it is not inspiring confidence in the rest of the system! Most reviews of the screwfix mount mention that more than one band is needed and that the band clamps are rubbish. Do you guys know what size band it is or where to source better quality bands/clamps?

We had a pressurized system installed at our house by our builders plumber 2.5 years ago. The pressure vessel (24l intervarem) beside the pump has recently started to droop but it is not leaking (yet!). No water from the Schrader valve so I think the droop is due to the tank being poorly...

[/url] cheers richard. based on all the comments i will try to get some quotes for the work rather than include it in the tender. next step is finding some decent heating engineers in ireland!

hi alec, we were planning on having engineered wood floors mostly with tiles in the bathroom and ensuite. how would the valves be setup and would the wc on the 100w work well with this kind of setup? would you suggest using thermostats or just wc? crol

the bathrooms will have ufh in addition to towel rails. yikes; doesn't sound nice. do you think the wc in the vitodens 100w would be sufficiently adjustable? or would you recommend another boiler or wc system? i'm a little confused about how wc would work in combination with multiple ufh...

thanks tony. how detailed would those specifications be and how much would it cost roughly? for the tender we're mostly concerned with ensuring we are comparing like for like on each of the renovation elements. we don't mind the towel rails only being warm as they will only be used to...

hiya, i'm starting to put together a tender doc for a low energy bungalow renovation. we plan on using a 240l break tank, 3 bar booster pump and viessmann vitodens 100w combi. we would like to use wet ufh on the 160 square meter ground floor and are currently thinking of using 3 zones...

thanks for your help john. do those valves come with a low pressure flow restrictor? also, would a side or bottom entry fill valve be better (or make any difference)? crol

thanks for the tips. rainwater will be collected in an underground tank and pumped up to this header tank which will also have a mechanical mains top up valve in case no rainwater is available. crol

Because it will be full of rainwater.