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Ok so managed to extract the PCB, I'm not an electrician but it doesn't look healthy.

Wires look fine at the junction box for both the supply and the cable running to the hood, well secured in the terminals, no black marks on the insulation, no freyed ends. Electrolux offer a fixed price repair for £150 so will do it.

Ok so I've managed to borrow a multimeter from a friend and checked the supply at the junction box and it reports as 240 v.

True, but if there is no fuse and there is juice at the switch I can't see it being anything other than a board of some kind having blown when the bulb went.

Model number is Electrolux EFC70710x. Nothing in the manual that states whether there is an internal fuse. It does say however that it is recommended it's connected to a 3a fuse spur etc etc. I think without the fuse being in place it has blown the PCB and so a new one is probably required.

I like the sound of this, however it would mean that the cooker hood is now kaput and a new one is needed. Now to try and find a new one that will fit the space and someone to fit it which I don't have a good track record of doing

Ok thanks, I will see if I can borrow one, it would surprise me in the slightest if there is no fuse with this house or if the fused spur had been hidden behind a cupboard. The house is only 10 years old but some of the decisions that were taken are baffling, like grouting in all the electrical...

I've had a little look underneath and if there is a fuse it definitely isn't obvious. The white cable has a moulded end that plugs straight in to the unit inside.

I do have a voltage detector and that says that there is a current on both sides of the junction box, could this be the case if the fuse if there is one had blown?

Many thanks for the replies. I will need someone to check the supply at the junction box as I don't have the tools to do that. The supply from the junction box disappears into the ceiling so unsure if the cable at the switch is the same or whether there is a fused spur in-between that I have...

Hi all, I've got an issue with my cooker hood. The bulb blew on Saturday and took the whole thing out with it and tripped the switch in the consumer unit in the process. I reset the switch but the unit is now dead. I've looked everywhere for a fused spur or socket where the cooker hood could be...

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Ok so pump most definitely does not like that valve being closed. Must be required for pump overrun. Have closed it 3/4 a turn now, looks like I'll have to play tunes on this Vs balancing radiators. I knew it was too easy!

My only concern now is that is this bypass valve supposed to be closed or partially cracked? I'd hate to solve one issue only for it to be doing longer term damage to the boiler

Thanks for all your help

Hi all, bit of an update, while poking around in the cupboard with the cylinder and valves I noticed a gate type bypass valve above the cylinder return pipe and before the 2 port motorised valves which was fully open. In other words a large proportion of flow from the boiler would have been...

Sorry when I say virtually closed I mean it's just cracked a tiny bit so a 1/16 of a turn maybe and that's on all of them bar the kitchen and they are all still hot. Flow on kitchen rads now to up high 50s with return being 12 to 15 degrees lower. Doesn't seem excessively cooler but don't think...

Hi, quick update, all my lockshields are now virtually closed on every radiator except the 2 kitchen ones which are wide open and they are much hotter than they were. Not sure what this says of the state of my plumbing however. They're not red hot however but acceptable, not sure what else I...

Ok I'll do that! The one trv seems a bit dodgy on the one as well, the pin isn't stuck on the valve but the pin inside the TRV bit is a bit sticky so I've removed it for now.

Ok, looks like I'm making some progress, I've spent some time this morning restricting the lockshield valves on most radiators. For the towel rails I've heavily restricted both valves which seems to have helped also. One kitchen radiator much warmer, the other one still luke warm. Trouble is...