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I have this patio at the end of my garden - and I want to redo it. it's been there for years and is quite uneven. Would it be ok to put a layer of ballast over the top and lay slabs directly over it? would this cause any problems - see pic.

Thanks, I have a decent sds drill with a clutch, so I,ll give it a go, I'll blame you if I end up with holes all over my house :)

Core drill it is then - is there any disadvantage in stepping down the hole size eg from 150mm to 100mm, I am looking at an extraction rate of about 600m3/h, will 100mm be adequate?

Im instaling a cooker hood and want to vent through a double brick external wall, Ive seen an extractor kit that converts the round vent to a rectangular brick sized vent so the bricks can be removed instead of core drilling a hole. Question is - would the bricks in both skins will be aligned so...

use pva - and jointing compound for skim coat, well im glad somebody replied, poxy forum is useless

I have a Kitchen wall where the paint has not fully adhered to the plaster. I have scraped it back so there are now patches of bare plaster and patches of paint. I am happy that I have scraped as much of the paint that will come off. I now want to skim coat. What should I use in the way of...

I have knocked through my kitchen diner wall. There is now a course of bricks level with the slab and the screed has been taken back a few inches I want to damp proof the gaps between the bricks and slab before filling the gap with new screed, any suggestions.

After fitting the frame they have attached a piece of beading to the frame to fill the gap between frame and wall. I'm sure it's removable but not sure what they have used to attach it to the frame and whether removing it would damage the frame. I assume it's done with some sort of adhesive...

I have removed tiles from my kitchen window and there is now a gap between the wall and the window beading where the tiles used to be. The beading is attached to the upvc frame and needs to be removed and replaced flush to the wall. Can I un stick this piece of beading from the window frame? and...

I assume he doesn't mow on wet ground or concrete. It is quite a cheap old machine, my assumption is there is excessive arcing over the poles. I would have thought all mowers would have an earth? This has given me an idea though - I have an RCD plug adapter. if he runs it through this it should...

Underground, comes up into the kitchen cupboard to a fairly modern looking consumer unit.

My house has an independant supply

No, he's fine and just carries on mowing and whistling a merry tune :( It does it 3 or 4 times over the course of him mowing the lawn but it is every time he does it. My house has a completely independant supply.

My house is a 1950's semi, (previously owned by an electrician haha) my neighbour is in the semi block adjacent to mine. I read throught link from "ban all sheds"(thanks), sounds similar to my problem and similar consumer unit. Think it is beyond my diagnostic skills an will probably need a lekkie.

This may sound crazy but it happens. Whenever my neighbour uses his electric lawnmower it trips the RCD on my fuse box. Is this possible and what could be the cause or solution? Is it that the RCD is just too sensetive?

I am making a base for my shed. there are some slab peirs already there and I plan to build a wooden frame to place ontop of the piers to bring it to the correct height. Need some help choosing the best (most durable) wood for the job? thanks

At the bottom. it is fixed securely to the stringer, shaped to fit the stairs and dowelled. it is quite an old staircase and solid at the base. It has been cut down and has about 12" remaining. I do not want to replace the whole newel I don't have the carpentry skills or tools and the base is...

I have a newel post that has been partially cut off and I want to extend it back to full length. it is 70mm sq so I can't get an extension with a spigot but I can get a full newel, so I'm going to cut that and joint the two. The question is the best way to join them (minimal woodwork)...

Ok gripfill sounds like a good (easy) solution, so I will go with 12mm ply stuck down with gripfill, some foam type underlay on top (also acts as a damp proof), and then float the Engineered wood on top of that. Some products use a glueless click together system, I will probably try and use...

the floors very flat, I'll just lay the ply and ensure it's level, do you think that will be ok,