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Do you know why that would be happening? The same paint is being used on MDF from the same batch elsewhere without problems.

I’ve just had MDF under-stairs cupboards built, but when they went to paint the door, they’ve been finding that tiny bubbles are appearing as it dries. It’s Ronseal water-based Satin paint, and it’s being used all over the house (including similar MDF) and everywhere else it is fine. They have...

Thanks!

I’m painting a wall with vinyl matt emulsion (Covaplus) but at the edges some of the woodwork paint (water-based white satin) has overlapped onto the wall slightly. It’s fractionally onto the wall (half a cm at most). If I simply paint over this sliver when cutting in, will the vinyl matt...

Definitely no smell. Just trying to establish if it’s corrosion or a leak.

Thanks for the answers - I’m aware of the basic physics of lighting the hydrogen, but I was hoping for a safer alternative. I watched a YouTube video of someone attempting to safely ‘pop’ the hydrogen in an upturned kettle, but accidentally setting fire to their radiator!

I have a radiator which regularly needs bleeding and I’d like to check whether the gas coming out is hydrogen. Is there a safe way of doing this (i.e. that doesn’t involve setting fire to it)?

Update - looking at the technical data sheet it says “Scrape-resistance over glossy surfaces develops in 5 to 7 days as Perma-White® cures.” So it looks like this is normal. It would certainly make me feel better if anyone has had personal experience though?

I bought Zinsser Perma White because I needed to paint a flat in a hurry and it advertises that it’s for both walls and woodwork, and is self-priming so it can be painted over old gloss/semi-gloss paints without a separate primer, saving a coat. I properly prepped/cleaned/sanded the first door...

Ha ha :) I was thinking more that grease might stick to it more easily or something... anyway, I’m certainly not digging it out now!

Phew! Will I suffer any ill effects? Will it go mouldy easier or will I have problems behind the cooker?

I applied silicone around my new kitchen tiles yesterday, and this morning I realised I had accidentally used Dow Corning 791 instead of 785 (i.e. a weatherproofing sealant instead of a sanitary sealant). Is this a disaster?

I’ve got some Wedi backer board for tiling a kitchen Splashback, but I can’t get hold of Wedi Joint Reinforcement Tape as quickly as I’d like. I can get Dukka Waterproof Tape - I take it this would be a suitable alternative? Also, can I take straight over the tape without priming? Thanks

Thanks very much opps. I think I’ll just use 2 coats of cover stain this time so I can finish the tin. Next time I’ll buy a combined primer/undercoat.

Could I just do a second coat of the Cover Stain since I’ve already got it? In places where I’ve gone over twice it seems to hide pretty well, and it sands easily.

Thanks for the advice! Can you recommend a good undercoat to use under white satin water-based paint? All the undercoats I can find are combined primer-undercoats, and I’ve already done the primer!

I’m painting wooden doors, and my plan is two coats of water-based white satin on top of the Cover Stain.

Zinsser’s primers (BIN, 123 and Cover Stain) all say in their technical docs that they can be painted over with any water-based or solvent-based topcoat. But they never actually use the word “undercoat”; they only describe themselves as primers. I’ve already primed a new wooden door with...

Thanks Ken. There are certainly some cracks in the external paint - I’ve been meaning to paint it! There’s no rot evident, thankfully, so any dampness is a recent thing. If I paint it now (externally), will I just be sealing in damp? Or does it dry out fairly quickly once the weather is warmer?

Evening Ken! If the window ever had shellac or stain, it would have been decades ago, but I suspect it was white paint from the start (1914). When we moved in, it was painted white. Even if there was shellac, I think it’s unlikely that the latest coat of paint would react with something...