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Sorry forgot to mention I had already removed the grub screw. Will try that. Seems to only be one. Whatever I pour into the hole for the valve comes out the grub screw hole as well. Thank you all for the suggestions, looks like I just got to show it the hammer.

Did try twisting it no movement at all. It's a hard water area I wonder if it's limescale bonding it to the tap body. Here's the replacement cover, it's smooth inside no thread or anything.

Hi, need some help getting the valve covers off this Franke tap to replace the valves. https://central-servicesuk.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=893 Have undone the grub screw underneeth and sprayed WD40 in the end and soaked it in white vinager but it's not budging at all. The...

That's a big help. Thank you :)

Hi, Is it possible for me to buy a handle and fit it or is a new window needed? As you can see I loosened the screws and fed a cable tie around it for a makeshift handle but obviously it's not secure and the wind keps blowing it open. The handle was horizontal and rotated 90 degrees upwards to...

ok thanks.

Hi, How would I go about that? Where the dryer is going on the other side of the stud wall there's a double socket in the next room. Can a new socket be fed from that?

Alright, think I'm confident enough to get on with it now. Thanks all for your help.

The browning is a lot cheaper than that one coat so I could get some browning to fix the box and a tube of that stuff for touch up. What about hardwall, just watched the chap in this video showing how to mix and apply it, would that be better than browning for this use or are they about the same?

Good advise there thanks. What plaster/filler should I use to patch up if needed or to hold the box in place if I can't screw it in, something like this?

Ok it is block and not plasterboard like I thought. So I'll need a metal back box and what plaster to "muck it in"? Any other tools I'll need? TY.

hmm the plot thickens then. Ok will investigate TY. It does sound hollow. Just checked the power socket bellow and it has a deeper back box installed in the same way. A deeper box for the light switch as well would of been good!

Was built in the 70s I think, it's quite thin as well about 60mm total, guess it would be a bit thicker than that wouldn't it if it was Lath and plaster. The edge of it looks like plasterboard anyway. Will give it a go tomorrow hopefully then if not next weekend, wish me luck haha. Thanks...

Right I don't think it's lath and plaster.

Yes :) No idea will have to go google lath and plaster It's not a brick wall so presumed it was plasterboard, not heard of lath and plaster.

I have yep, want it flush and the dimmer needs 35mm so it would stick out quite far. It needs redecorating so that's not an issue.

Hi, Need to fit a deeper back box to install a dimmer switch in a bedroom but not sure how best to remove the old one. It's a partition wall and the other side is the landing. The current back box is not screwed in but looks like it's pushed into a blob of plaster. What's the best way to get it...

Ok well I'm all for following best practice. If your going to do a job... So it's to indicate the purpose of the wire? Blue is usually neutral but it's a switching wire so needs brown or black instead. I'm just curious really.

Ah, that's the handywork of the boiler installer 7 years ago. How do I sleeve it, insulation tape/heat shrink/other and why does it need doing out of interest?

Oh ok, couldn't of blown myself up even if I had tried then :ROFLMAO: Cheers lads, I've learnt something today (y)