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Oh

Yes, I would get rid of the chipboard and replace with ply. Do your ply infills In between the joists underneath where the former will go. You will need minimum of 18mm ply fixed to the joists over the remaining floor area (extra noggins between joists if required). You will then have a...

Need a thicker former, or build it up

:ROFLMAO:

Ok well make sure the floorboards are well screwed down, obviously being careful of pipes/ cables. I would apply some sbr primer was to the floorboards first, then use tile adhesive to bed the boards down with (full bed) using a 6/8mm trowel. These then need to be screwed at 150 centres to the...

Scraper, brush, hoover

What’s the substrate? Are you going on floorboards or have you ripped it back to joists and fitted ply? Either way you want to make sure your joists are solid, and fit noggins if necessary. I would usually then overboard in at least 18mm ply, fixed at 150mm centres. Then glue and screw 6mm...

Not a problem doing what you suggest. When I build stud walls for niches and services I usually use 4x2 which gives a nice depth to the niche. Have used 3x2cls in the past but sometimes they can be a bit shallow. That backer board is fine to use, however at 10mm you want fairly close stud...

Ideally you want to use a self levelling compound over the whole lot, then ditra on top of that when it’s flat. If you have some noticeably high spots you can grind them down first. You don’t want to be messing around building up loads of areas etc with adhesive - waste of time and money. No...

Fair enough. My dewalt sticks to it like **** to a blanket. Hasn’t been knocked/fallen off in the 6 or so years I’ve been using it

Does your dewalt laser have magnets on the swivel bracket? Mine does, and I have always used it in conjunction with a cheap extendable plasterboard prop - £20ish from Screwfix. You can then mount/slide the laser wherever you want along the pole, very simple

2 small tabs at rear of base where it meets pan, slide these across a few mm then you should be able to slide whole thing forward

Make sure you back butter your tiles before laying them on your combed adhesive bed as well

Leave a 2mm spacer gap from bottom of tile to top of basin, don’t grout this, just silicone it

I don’t mean the worktop, I mean the base units themselves. Very common practice

Or scribe the units back to the wall so the top of the unit is touching the wall?

Look up lfr sealants on Instagram. He might be able to help

Cheers guys, all drained and re filled with towel rad fitted and no issues. My main concern was the unvented hot cylinder and if that had any affect on the central heating, but obviously not!

If anyone could provide their insight by tomorrow morning, that would be grand!!! (y)(y)(y):sneaky:

My sister wants a new towel rail fitted in her shower room so need to drain system down and change valves etc. I’ve done this plenty of times on a vented system and a system with a Combi boiler. The plumbing set up she’s got is in the photos above. Would it just be the same as draining down...